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The 50 up there never worked right, plus it's 20 yrs old. Even in it's "half a$$" state, it somehow supplied this house just fine (2 adults, 2 kids). It wasn't until it quiter literally stopped making hot water that we felt compelled to replace it. If a new 40 gallon tank, which I have to...

Plumber looked at my house and in his opinion a 40 gallon tank would be sufficient - the answer to your question is yes, I trusted his recommendation. If a month from now that water heater isn't serving my house well, then i'll take it up with him and i'm sure I'll feel compelled to start a new...

So .... water heater is from 1996. It has been acting funny for a while and the most recent attempt at extending it's life was a thermal coupling .. did not do anything. It has to go. It's a 50 gallon which I'm told is slightly larger than the "default" for a 2.5 bath house. Plumber has a 50...

Funny - Grainger is one of the many sites I visited. The one you linked to is no longer made. The other ones they have all have a max IN pressure of 0.5, not out.

I'm sure it would do a fine job for Propane. I have Natural gas though.

Barbeque manufacturer: "You will need to contact your gas company to resolve this issue" Just left a msg for them.

Charlotte, NC. In Denmark we have all black pipe.

I have a 2PSI natural gas system in my house. I have an outlet for the grill ... bought the hose, quick connect etc. everything I need for the grill. Except.... All the grill parts say not to exceed 0.5pSI. OK - no problem. The house is 2PSI. So ... we need a regulator that takes the 2PSI...

Well ... just in case the masses want to know. I did speak with a plumber - 3 in fact. One was the guy that either works for the gas company or is subcontracted by the gas company (it wasn't clear - he used paperwork labelled as the gas company). Everyone agreed that the copper pipe chillin'...

This is too wonky. Called a plumber. He'll be here next week some time. Here is a pic of the whole layout.

EDIT: I found the answer to my previous question. Can you tell from that pic if it's soldered or brazed? Crazy that it's just buried in the ground like t that...

This is a pic of my house. It's in Charlotte, NC and built in 1996. From what I can tell, the line comes out of the wall, splits in 2 where one goes back into the perpendicular wall and feeds the fireplace. The line that exits the picture runs under (and up through) the deck to a valve that...

OK -that should be manageable. So it seems there is a way to do this - now I just have to gather up the courage to rip out all the iron pipes!

So I should not build it the way I have it in my last picture?

This ain't the prettiest but it'll do .......

So basically build the same setup as in that picture of all the PVC I posted with the drain for the kitchen sink tied in below everything else in that picture?

This picture is turning into quite the frankenstein picture, but I think it'll make sense. I have pasted in a shot of the open kitchen wall above (Ignore all the cast iron and lead, most of it is gone now). I have also added arrows to illustrate how the drain from the kitchen ties into the...

AH!!! You are right. I remember now from when I had the kitchen wall open upstairs, the vent does split off up there and come off the trap arm as well. So ... if I poke around the site a bit I find this setup a few places which seems to be what I need - right? My only point of confusion...

Maybe I did a crappy job explaining it. I labelled them - hopefully that helps. The way it is now, the vent pipe is above both the sink and the washing machine p-trap. I was under the impression this meant it was venting both of them.

I'd like to add a utility sink by the washer/dryer. This is the drain over there. The first pipe (left) is the washer), the middle one is the kitchen sink from upstairs and the third one (right) is the vent. The bottom of that trap is 10" above the slab and the top (where the pipe connects)...