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I've got a few more pics to post on this including my failed attempt to use a Fluidmaster "better than wax" seal. The flange sits on the floor so the gap was too small to compress the foam seal. Used wax instead.

It was a prospective fix as I wrote it but about an hour later I took out my angle grinder with a diamond wheel and did it. The champion 4 tank only has 2 bolts so there's no way to adjust the front to back tilt independently as you tighten down the tank bolts. Alternate side tightening first...

I installed this toilet 11 years ago and was never able to get the tank adjusted in a way where the seat could rest in the up position without the risk of it falling down mid... My workaround was to use a slow close seat. I had to remove the toilet a few years ago when we installed a new floor...

I just wanted to conclude this thread with the completed project. As shown in my earlier posts, the leak was from a hole in the metal riser (corrosion through the metal). The new riser designs have the PE pipe going all the way through the metal riser pipe (vs terminating underground). The new...

Here are some dry fit examples using a 4 elbow swing joint. I could adjust by using different nipple lengths. With the riser at about the correct height, it comes very close to the bottom of the meter but it's workable. None of the pictures demonstrate the arrangement required where settling...

Makes sense if it's going into the sides of the meter. In my case, I'd be swinging up to meet a union (see the picture above). If I elbow off the riser 90° to the left and the next elbow is 90° towards the meter which can swing up (clockwise tightening) with a 10" nipple then to an elbow 90° to...

Yeah and who knows whether it gets pulled down or pushed up by the soil. We don't get freezing where I live but we get earthquakes occasionally.

Wouldn't a swing joint always have more fittings? In my situation, the position of the riser can't be lined up directly under the Union that was tapped off the main line from the meter. The original layout had the riser routed under a cement wall with a deep footing (you can see the original...

I understand "no street 90" but can you clarify what you mean by an S or U shape. My assumption is the swing joint should be arranged so that any settling (down) would result in a tightening of a fitting vs loosening which means, depending on the layout, I would end up with an S or U shaped...

Can/should I do a Swing Joint from a riser to the meter? It's a 1-1/2" riser. I was considering using 4 elbows (maybe 2 of them street elbows) and a 6" or 8" pipe to be able to have better control when lining up the union joint (with whatever other benefits come with a swing joint - the downside...

Thanks. Good to know Con-Stabs are good. Not selling to 'civilians' is probably why I can't easily find them online. I can't argue with that policy. I'm replacing the old riser because it sprung a leak so the trace wire is already there (apparently they didn't have the warning tape requirement...

The decision was made for me. I ordered the Home-Flex since the Continental Industries riser was on back-order until June. But I'm still interested in opinions from those who've worked with either of them.

I need to replace a corroded gas riser and I'm considering either the Home-Flex (with compression fittings) or the Continental Industries (Hubbell) with the Con-Stab ID Seal fittings. I can't do thermal fusion because of the lack available space (and the lack of the equipment to do it). If...

Good news. Found the leak. It's on the riser pipe about 20"down a bit after it begins the 90 degree bend. Seems like corrosion caused a small hole through the metal. You'll see tape in the picture where the leak is. I put the tape there so the line would hold air pressure long enough to check...

The leak was clearly isolated to that gas line and coming from the hole I dug around the sweep pipe. It's only now that I have enough access to verify the exact location (is it corrosion in the metal or is there a bad junction to the PE?). I want to know that before I start the repair. I'll...

Long overdue update: I hired a concrete guy to chop/cut away the concrete wall footing so I can get more access to the pipe. As you can see in the photo, it didn't help because the PE junction is too far under the wall to get to from this side. So I had him go at it from the other side with...

Yes but that connection is about 30" down and 30" behind concrete block wall that's built on a cement footing that's about 24x24. Once it passes under that wall, where the connection to the PE is, it's under a solid cement patio (about 3 to 4" thick). So even if I can dig out enough to see the...

Here's my latest status. I capped the line going to the main supply and at the pool heater with the gauge on the bbq supply (but I can't cap at the fire pit). I pressurized it (with air) to 10-psi and after an hour it's already down to 6-psi. This makes it pretty clear the leak is underground...

Here's where I read about detectors using hydrogen as a tracer gas: https://schoonoverinc.com/hydrogen-leak-detection/ There's a link there for this detector for underground lines: Hydro-Lok - Hydrogen Leak Detection System for Underground Lines - Apex Vacuum

Thanks. I'll look into using a tracer to find the Tees. They should be under grass. The gas company only sniffed around the meter area and suspected the line going to the pool. They used a sensor on a pole with a spike they pushed several inches into the dirt. They also did a pressure test on...