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Why not just fix the diverter stem?

Most of the physics is buried in the code and if you can handle the charts (math, mostly) in the code book you should be fine. The why (physics) you will pick up as you go along if you pay attention and are curious.

A san tee is fine, just turn it so the sweep of the branch points toward the vent termination.

You got it.

You have used a double sanitary tee to split off to the two lavs, it should be a double fixture tee.

Drilling a hole in the side of the tub is a bad idea. Even if you manage to make things watertight at the base of the spout it would be illegal. The outlet of the spout needs to be above the top of the tub.

Most likely a loose washer. Usually when that happens it indicates that the seat is rough and needs to be changed along with the washer.

Starting from the cooktop use a black elbow, a black nipple, the regulator, a flare X MIP adapter then a flex to the gas valve. Be sure to install the regulator in the correct orientation, it will be marked showing the direction of flow.

Through the roof, that is the code. Actually, it could be run through the wall (at a 45 angle or 42" above the floor if a 90 is used), but you would need to then turn it up and run above the edge of the roof.

You may be able to buy another Eastman valve and just swap out the guts.

Be sure to ream the copper or it will create turbulence which will erode the inside of the pipe. The higher the velocity of the water, the more important it is.

They actually do make long sweep st 90s in ABS and PVC, but they are rare birds.

Your picture shows the faucet body with the cartridge (stem) screwed into it. Remove the cartridge and post a picture of it next to a ruler. Does the broach have 15 splines? 16 is more common.

The soft copper under the slab will be type L, or remotely possibly type K. It is often easier/cheaper to repipe overhead, but it depends on the situation. It might be possible to determine which line is leaking and just redo that one (under the slab or overhead), but if one line is leaking now...

You can fold back the rubber on the top and bottom bands, push in the new tee and pipe then snap the rubber down.

That is an S trap. You need a vent after the trap before the line drops down. Otherwise the trap can syphon and whatever gasses are in the sewer can enter your home.

Post some pictures.

Remove the hex shape bushing then pull the stem straight out. The Aquaseal and Renu stems are interchangeable. Replace the seat while you have it apart.

What you need to do is identify the stem, that will let you find the right seat. It is possible the last person that worked on the faucet put in the wrong seat, or a different one with the same thread and height.

It would be simpler to start with the stem and move back to the brand/model. There are a lot of faucets in this day and age that look the same and you will have people claiming the brand they have is UPC.