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I've attached the driller's report. My question is about the casing--why would there be the 2" slotted pipe from 555' - 565', if the 4-1/2" casing goes all the way to 605'? Also, with the available information, is there a way to tell what the original static water level was? Thanks Edit...

OK, thanks, If I'm thinking it through right, the bleeder shouldn't see any higher pressure without the check valve, it just sees that pressure for much longer periods of time. Is that right? Hmm, so how can I utilize a spare unused 120 gallon HP tank?

My current HP tank (Old and rusty--I'm in the process of replacing it) is piped with a tank tee, there's no AVC on the tank, but at the well head I have a check valve, snifter valve, and a bleeder orifice down the well (I'm not sure how far down). I don't know if all three of those components...

1) I understand the general principle of how the AVC works on a tank in combination with the check valve, snifter valve and bleeder valve; but how exactly does the AVC work when you vary the cut-in, cut-out pressure? I've seen some AVC's online that are not adjustable, and some that say they...

A have a few additional questions: 1) can the pressure switch be installed up high on the tank in the air portion of the tank? Or is it better to be connected to a point that will have water? 2) The current plumbing from the well head to the well house (about 10' distance) is 1 1/4...

Not having any problems, and not even mad--just making sure there's not anything that would be cause of concern or anything I needed to do to correct any issues. If anything, I'm a little upset at myself for not checking at install time and not noticing till now. I guess I'm a touch...

It's a 2hp pump so at least according to franklin manual is good for 250', right? And yeah, I'm not looking to replace the wire. Just wondering if there are any issues I need to be aware of.

My pump is installed 358' down + 15' of wire to the well house, so roughly 375'. I just noticed that they installed 12awg wire. 10awg was what was payed for. My voltage at the controller box is 244, i've never measured it at anything less than 240 -- the last time I measured current from...

OK, I was able to find an efficiency chart for this pump and should be attached to this post, and also find the relevant info on their new product site...

Yeah, I've been looking at integrating a cycle stop valve, I know there's a few issues I'd have to work out with using a pneumatic tank with one and a couple other site issues. I have a WSHP that currently uses this well for its water, that I've been meaning to convert to using a shallow well I...

The check valve with the snifter valve is right at the well head, which is about 10 ft from the well house in a cement caisson. My current tank uses a normal tee on the intake, and then on the outtake they have a steel 1 1/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing with a 1/2" tee and the air make-up valve on...

Yeah, I've tried using their webcaps system, but can't seem to get the information out from that. It has a motor curve, but I don't know how to read it, it shows cos phi, l, eta, n, and p1. Is any of that useful? I got there from grundfos main page, clicking on webcaps, putting my model #...

Ok, thanks -- I've seen a lot of tank tees with multiple ports to hook up pressure gauges, pressure control switch, and various other things, where could I find something like that for a straight setup?

The directions for this tank state to plumb the incoming water on one side and the outgoing on the opposite side. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to plumbing it to just one side with a tank tee? Thanks

I have a Grundfos 16s20-18 pump with a Franklin 2 hp 1 phase motor. Is there a way I could come up with an efficiency curve?

Thanks for the responses so far. Quick info on well -- 4" 650' with screen near bottom, 2HP pump @ 350', static water level @ 270'. Located South-East of Dallas. Is there a way to tell if the snifter, bleeder, and pressure relief valve are even working? Probably a dumb question, but why is...

So I'm looking to replace my old 120 gallon pressure tank with a new bladder tank probably with a CSV. Currently, the tank has no air volume control. There is a check valve close to the well head with a snifter valve and a bleeder valve maybe 10 ft down the drop pipe. I'm not sure if the...

Well info: 650' (? best guess from old owner) 4" steel casing. 2 HP Pump at 350' on 1 1/4" galvanized pipe. static water at 270' Easy access. If my calcs are right, it would weigh: 350' pipe @ 2.35 lbs/ft = 822 lbs water in pipe = 320 lbs pump/motor = 35 lbs (?) Total = 1177 lbs...

Samples were taken within 15 minutes of each other. Samples were then mailed to Texas A&M testing lab. No recent chlorine/vinegar cleaning of well or faucet. I'm just guessing, but I'm thinking for the manganese, a lot of the manganese has oxidized and precipitated out in the 120 gallon...

*reposted from pump and well forum as I think this forum is more appropriate for question. I just had my water tested at both the well head and at an indoor faucet. The plumbing from the well head consists of 15' of 1 1/4" galvanized pipe to an old 120 gallon galvanized pressure tank...