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I have a leak at the bottom of an elevated cast iron pipe, in a crawl space. It is assumed to be a pin-hole leak from internal corrosion since there is no evident damage to the outside of the pipe. This is only the second time I have worked on a leak in cast iron. During preparations for cutting...

I am preparing to water test the new PVC sewer and vent lines for a new bathroom. The toilet has a knock-out flange built into it. Is the knock-out flange suitable for holding water during a water test? If so, when I fill the system won't there be an air pocket in the toilet arm of the line...

I am preparing the plumbing for a two pipe wall mounted faucet. The faucet is to be mounted onto male threaded pipe fittings. The male threaded pipe protrudes partially out of the backing frame (board/blocking). The pipes need to hold water under pressure until the wall is finished and the...

First - my appreciation for house wiring stops at correct new installations. I do not know what happens over time or when things get creative. I am replacing a line voltage thermostat that operates a fan in a fan coil. The cabling is #14 metal jacket to ground (BX). The cable may be running...

I am about to have a freeze clamp applied to a 175 degree F heating supply line to disconnect equipment. Thermal shock comes to mind. Heat and pressure and ice do not seem a good combination to me. The notes I am finding indicate to stop the water flow and let the pipe cool. I can stop the...

I'm looking at a building heating system that puts out 175 degree F hot water for supplying fan coils. I am replacing the fan coil and have found the existing valves are not holding 100% anymore. Is a special 1/2" shut-off used for an installation at such temperature or will "common" copper...

I am dealing with a water heater installation I hired out 18 years ago. The tank was installed so that the relief valve is obstructed by the wall and can not be removed. Now the T&P valve is leaking and I have to do some exercise to get at it. The tank has to be turned 3". This requires the...

18 years ago I had a cold water 3/4" shut-off gate valve on a copper line replaced with a RELLEUM ball valve. Currently having shut off that valve due to work on the T&P valve I find it is not holding. I was of the mind ball valves outlasted gate valves by a large margin. 18 years does not...

I was having trouble getting fittings hot enough to melt solder. The torch is a Bernzomatic propane tank and a Turner manually ignited solid brass nozzle/valve. I disassembled the nozzle and spray tip cleaning both with alcohol. I needed serious magnification to see that the orifice was clear...

I recently came across a mention in discussions of hot water heaters of adding a ground wire between the hot and cold water pipes. By connecting the hot and cold copper inlet and outlet pipes where they enter the tank it was intended to reduce electrolysis of metals in the hot water tank...

Looking at inspecting / replacing anode rod on Bradford White hot water heater. Fit? If the tank is 58 1/2" tall and the rod is 44+" long how is it supposed to fit? 58 1/2 + 44 = 102 1/2" floor to ceiling for a 97 1/4" Fl to Clg space. Am I correct that the tank has to be emptied and tilted...

Working on modification to 3/4" supply line in crawl space. Installing a NIBCO 3/4x3/4x1/2 'T' to supply new toilet. I have one 3/4 and the 1/2 soldered and good order. The remaining 3/4 joint did not heat and distribute solder well and did not hold water when the water was turned back ON...

Is there a rule for how close I can tie in a 2" horizontal drain after a water closet? The water closet is 23" from a stack vent that will be a future waste stack and the 2" is going between the water closet and stack. Thank you

Installing a bathroom about 4 feet from an existing bathroom that will be demolished. The relocation has to do with and overall renovation including enlargement of the bathroom. The existing bathroom DWV is all cast iron bell and lead joints. I will need to tear out all the existing cast iron...

I must be missing something or maybe just be trying too hard. Dry fit assemblies are not as tight as glued assemblies. The glue acts as a lubricant and the joints slide together tighter. When there is some room to work that does not have an impact but in tight areas with a lot of fittings it...

I have a cast iron integral apron alcove tub that is being relocated. There was no indication under the original installation that the "feet" under the basin were supported. Looking at installation instructions on new cast iron tubs, that are not a match for what I have, I see that the space...

I am replacing the overflow and drain on a cast iron tub. The overflow has two tabs. One on each side of the center that overlap the edges of the cast iron hole. See Photo. I thought this would push to the side and tilt out but there is still a 1/16" to 1/8" overlap. I can only assume this...

I use PB Blaster on my car with good effect. Is there anything special about Liquid Wrench that makes it more effective on plumbing? Are there other penetrating oils? I'm working on removing a 60 year old tub drain.

When a tub drain outlet lands on top of a floor joist it requires cutting out a notch in the top of the joist. I see that I can angle the drain line to the side and reduce the notch but the joist is still compromised. Is there a typical way a joist, notched for a tub drain, is reinforced?

I'm studying a tub installation and am wondering why tub drains do not go straight through the floor instead of doing a 90 requiring cutting a slot out of the floor. Couldn't the lateral just as easily be below the floor?