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Mainline Stoppage Problem Wanted to get some guidance. I have a house that was built in about 1960. It’s at hillside property with a ~ 100 ft main line that runs along the side of my house with a few 45° turns and ends up in my carport before connecting into the city main the street. I have...

1) I have a downstairs slate shower that was installed but not used until a few months ago by one of my kids. Noticed that it had been leaking under the curb. Tested the pan, capped and tested the plumbing lines, with no problem. Upon inspection noticed that the silicone seal where the enclosure...

1) I have a downstairs slate shower that was installed but not used until a few months ago by one of my kids. Noticed that it had been leaking under the curb. Tested the pan, capped and tested the plumbing lines, with no problem. Upon inspection noticed that the silicone seal where the enclosure...

My PRV opened Monday during the night and disc a little water and closed. PRV almost new, 6 mos old. Since, very low hot pressure to faucets. Opened HWH drain, opened hot supply line to check for blockage. No luck yet. HWH 10 year old Bradford White. Any ideas. Help!

My family woke up to inconsistent water pressure coming out of faucets in the house this morning. Checked around for any noticeable leaks in the house and did not find any. Checked the hot water heater, and noticed that the TMP valve must've opened up during the night because there were some...

I think there is enough real estate to get a socket on it. Just need to find one that fits!

Yes, the green line represents the approx 5mm gap. I did get a 32mm socket at auto supply place and it is too big to fit? I do need a deep socket to accomodate plastic lever (see pic). I am at a loss! Any other type of tool you can think of?

I had posted thread a week ago but not specific enough! Need help! I have a single lever faucet with a cartridge retaining nut that measures 32mm (by caliper) from flat side to flat side. Measured gap from corners of nut to inside of the cartridge body which measures approx 5mm. I have tried...

I measured nut with caliper 32mm. Measured gap corners corners to insude of cartridge body. The gap is approx 5mm. I have tried two sockets and they don't fit into the socket body. And no SAE shower valve wrenches fit. What am I missing? I used something a few years ago but can't remember what...

I did try the 1 9/32 socket on the nut. Unfortunately that was slightly too big, because this nut is metric! Perhaps 32mm. Don't think shower valve sets come in metric but have not looked.

Do they come in 3/8" drive? Would such a socket be too thick to get into the cavity? There is .25 gap to get socket in.

I have a single lever faucet with a cartridge retaining nut that measures 1.25 inches from flat side to flat side. Anybody have any idea what size metric socket would fit that size nut? I know it is metric. I replaced it once before, but honestly don't remember what I used? The cartridge nut...

Nope! Definitely don't want to do that. there has to be a trick.

Doesn't just pull out. Wish it were that easy.

Every couple of years the lever collet breaks (cheap pot metal) and the handle freezes to it ... Hard water. Can't remember how I got red plastic clip off to remove brass nut to get to the cartridge. Can't find the specs. Can anyone help? I want to rebuild it. Here is a photo.

I am finishing plumbing in bathroom remodel. Do I seal around the shower head flashing where it touches the stone, and around the valve handle flashing / mixer plate, where it touches the stone? Seems that caulk would get in the way of service work, and the shower head and mixer valve are not in...

Planning to run a copper 3/4 water heater TMP discharge through plywood platform, before 90 out of building. What is the best product to provide a water tight seal around tube going through plywood, as well as sealing around it? I plan to drill 7/8 hole, as I will with Stucco opening. Most...

I am running a discharge tube from water heater TMP. Is it in Code to run copper line directly on plaster/drywall? I will have to put sheet metal behind fittings to sweat though! Of course I will strap/clamp it!

Has anyone had experience with the quick connect connectors? Are they any good?

Not really, other than a collection of people contradicting each other. I am not a complete newbie and would just appreciate you responding to this post, if you can help. Thanks.