Search results

If you really don't want to slip... 1. Use a drill bit the same size as the the hole saw's bit to start. 2. Use the hole saw and spin the drill in REVERSE-to start the cut. You just want to break the surface. This keeps the blades from grabbing and messing up the your new...

2. The circuit cables coming out of the panel are run through holes drilled into the ceiling joists. I believe the joists are 2x10 and span 12-14'. There are 7 or 8 holes drilled side-by-side about 2" up from the bottoms of the joists, starting about 6" from the concrete wall that supports the...

I had a big pile of dirt from my garage/addition. What to do?- I put an ad in "Craig's List." And had numerous homeowners/landscapers drive up in their P/U truck and take the dirt away- for FREE. They (Dirt People) were happy-because everyone else wanted to charge for delivery.

I usually turn the blade around-face up rather than down. Then using a 6" blade- cut at a 45degree angle pushing the Sawsall at a 45degree angle. The you don't beat the blade up AND are able to pry the wood off easier due to the 45 degree cut. The side of the shoe glides right along on one of...

Thanks Mikey- I'll walk off the distance to see which is shortest. And yes- the wire is a lot cheaper since last year- about $75 less for a 500ft spool!! Richard

I have a house-relatively large ~5000sq ft and want to control the outside floodlights from the front door- and both master bedrooms (one down and one up). I'm looking at the standard double 100w type floodlights. Electrical panel is on the first floor- and lights will be on the sofits. Is...

Thanks guys- I went ahead and ran it up to 100+ PSI and checked after about twenty minutes- the had meter moved slightly down-about a couple psi (when I did both hot and cold) so I'm think I'm ok. I have to say I owe a lot to this forum and the discussion on solder...

I'm in the process of a second story addition. I had a friend of a friend- Licensed Plumber stop by and give me tips on what I needed to do - as far as layout-permit-codes and basic pointers. Anyway- I'm going to have him back over this weekend to check out before the inspection. I like...

JMHO- 2 X 4's are way to small for floor joist on 16" centers- especially w/ a 10ft span. I would have used at least 2X8 on 16"-And I it has a wall on it - 2 X 10's. Plus I would have used ¾' T & G plywood - which I glue, nail (ring shank), then screw. I think the squeaks will return....

I'm in the process of a second story addition. The pipes (copper-L ¾") and CPVC (3")will be running over (and down a wall) in the living room w/ 2 X 10 joists/ceiling. The master bath is above. Cast iron is not an option since plumbing is already done Any ideas to make the pipes very...

I agree-also use some "painters tape" (blue stuff) around the edge-top and bottom of the gap. Smear it in with your finger-then pull the tape right away. You'll get a nice clean joint line. I also do this on showers/tubs/ sinks- takes a little more time but it looks great. Richard

I was at the latest Big Box store- and they had a "Plumber's Bread." It's made from corn starch and supposedly completly dissolves in a couple minutes. Anybody used this stuff? Richard

IF you want a nice clean cut -get a masonry blade for your circ saw at the big box stores (about $20). Set the depth at ½ inch or less and score the bricks around the cut out. This spits out a LOT of dust-so be ready. I usually mark the cut out w/ blue painters tape and WEAR GOGLES. Then cut a...

Thanks-I'll be making some calls this morning. Richard

I'm in the process of a kitchen renovation-and I've run into a problem. The sink is made of stone and is way to thick for the standard flange. I've looked on line and at their (In-sink-erator badger 5) brochure-but can find nothing. Any ideas? At the big box stores -the guy looks like a deer...