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Thanks Reach4 for explaining about the ring sitting above the floor. It's just something I noticed would happen if one were to drill the usual 4 or 4-1/8" hole. Cutting a hole large enough to clear the 5-1/8 part, the screws to the floor have barely anything left to bite into. I guess these...

I'm quite late to this thread, but I recently needed a 10" rough, round bowl, standard height. Out of all the local places, only American Standard Cadet Pro was available at one of the supply houses. (This included the wholesalers with whom I've done business for hydronics over the years.) It...

Thanks Reach4 for the tips on the shielded coupling. I have my old 60 inch-pound Ridgid torque wrench from the 1970's when I worked in the field, so that was helpful. (We only did cast iron and I used it with No-Hub couplings when it wasn't leaded bell-and-spigot.) The cable saw is a good idea...

Thank You Reach4 for your advice & time. I very much appreciate it. I didn't explain too well & certainly didn't draw well at all: If one were to look at the back of the elbow and view the vertical pipe rising through the floor, we see that the pipe is tilting to one side instead of being...

Hello All! I had to move the closet waste in a bathroom. When I put the new riser and long sweep ell, I made an error and the riser is 1/4" out-of-plumb, tilting left as one faces the user side of where the toilet will be. From the top of the long sweep ell to the flange is just under 6 inches...

Thanks Reach4. Good idea about posting measurements. If that's the item to be used, I'll be sure to post a dimension sketch.

Thank You Reach4 & John for answering with helpful information & for the flange link. Thanks for the advice about avoiding a 3" inside flange, John. The only practical way for me is a 3" drop from the toilet to avoid moving a hydronic line. So, I can't use 4 x 3 closet bend, which would leave...

If you all don't mind, I have a follow-up question regarding the flange choice. Because the existing horizontal arm is at a slight angle, if I use a ten inch rough-in toilet the offset can be made with a 22-1/2 and a street 22-1/2. No offset flange will be needed. She Who Has More Sense pointed...

The project got stalled for life's other events, but soon I hope to return to it. With all of the information you each supplied, I'm now sure it'll work out well. I'll post back what I did to connect. Thanks Again All, Paul

Thank You Reach4 for the links and the PushTite flange. It's interesting looking and could prove very helpful if I can't get things aligned. (Also like the SuppyHouse link. I've been buying hydronic & controls from them since before Mr. Meyerowitcz took Plumbing Goods on line (eventually...

Thanks John for the arrester sizing idea. There now is Size AA. I just purchased by fixture unit specifications & manufacturer recommendation. Although I feel no movement in the valve body or pipes from a water hammer, it may well be worth trying a size up or two. Sure can't hurt. Thanks...

Thanks Everyone for replying & helping. I very much appreciate it. The plan is (was?) move the center of the pipe 1-1/4" over. Attached are photos. I'm not the greatest at picture taking, so there are notes. There isn't much length for rolling fittings before the closet ell meets the tree...

I did notice that we took down our Grohe display in our showroom and replaced it with more Toto.. which I actually do use at home and at the office. The plumber under whom I did my plumbing and pipe fitting apprenticeships (Late 1970's) insisted on Toto or Briggs. He would get in heated...

Hello All! At home, we are re-working a bathroom. The toilet will be moved. The move is 3" toward the stack and over 1.25". My trouble is that the length of the pipe from stack to toilet and the height to the subfloor is too small for rolling offsets to move 1.25" Unfortunately, some years ago I...

That nonsense of return & re-buy was pretty shoddy. If I had not already installed the Rapido box and boarded the wall, I would have returned & bought someone else's product. But, such is life I guess. I wonder if the reason Grohe is going downhill has something to do with them being owned by...

I know this thread is very old, but I'm adding just in case someone stumbles upon it looking for information. Hopefully it will clear up a little confusion & helps someone someday: Your G thread is the same as fittings titled BSPP PF, used mostly in Japan, is also the same as G & BSPP But...

After Grohe told me to replace the whole valve because of a 5 month plus back order for the parts, I did just that. The new one clunks exactly as the old one did. So I suspected that's how the valve works. I did like Tuttles Revenge mentioned and swiped one of the "Aquadimmers" (valve) and...

If you can't thread, per Reach4's best idea & you have had bad success with dressers, maybe a Compression x M-NPT fitting on & then put a cap on the NPT? I don't know of this is a long-term fix, or temporary. They're made for schedule 40 & 80 iron pipe (galvanized, black & stainless and...

I'll be sure to post when the new valve arrives. What will be fun is to remove one of the push-button "Aquadimmers" and study it on the bench.

From Tuttles Revenge: So basically the push buttons have some form of slow close feature that has stopped Dimming. Good point! I never thought of that. It makes sense that they should slow-close, especially since the first person at Grohe with whom I spoke said water hammer arresters are never...