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It's a Fleck and the tank is 9"x48" w a Pentair control mechanism. I will be watching output vs frequencies, looks like balance is key. Great idea about pulling the plug, thanks.

The water treatment company came today and turned back the amount of chlorine injection which was compromising the carbon. The carbon tank appeared to backflush through the pipes w/o problems. They shut off the PAC injection after comparing the well water supply with the mixture tank output...

The water treatment company came today and turned back the amount of chlorine injection which was compromising the carbon. The carbon tank appeared to backflush through the pipes w/o problems. They shut off the PAC injection after comparing the well water supply with the mixture tank output...

That sounds strikingly similar. The idea of a larger supply pipe is a really good one, thanks.

Thanks, we may be seeing an early end for it..

Our well system has a chlorine injection and a SternPAC injection going into a 120 G mixture tank. PolyAluminumChloride separates out colloidal clay in the water. The mixture tank then sends 'clean' water to the carbon filter. However, the carbon filter tank stopped automatically cycling...

A and B are both old lines from the old well (#1). When I turn C off and on, water from the well hydrant immediately shuts off/turns back on. The new well(#2) was recently installed. The incoming water is the black piping alongside the right side of blue tank and under D which controls Well 2...

If you were referring to the valve in the old well return line path, the incoming old well water effectively goes around it and into the house. However, if left open when running the new well, the new well water will travel to the old wel.. not a good thing?.. unless its check valve prevents...

I didn't know that the wells also had valves, makes sense thanks. As to valves between the wells and pressure switches, I don't believe there are any but do appreciate the info.

Thanks, I was referring to the white handle controlling the line going out to the old well. As to the red and blue handles, I may need to shut one when running the other well, alternating them weekly. If I leave them both on with the 40/60 30/50 plan, the new well may never come on as long as...

Right,,who knows. So I do need to shut the return valve handle when I run the new well to safely ensure no overload to the old well...assuming all I have done was to merely restrict use of the hydrant in the winter.

The terminals each have a single wire, none are shared.

I checked to see if hydrant would pump water once I shut off the valve, and it did not. When I reopened the valve, the hydrant pumped water out.

The PVC is incoming water from the old well. I was told the copper pipe going out the wall next to it is connected to the hydrant at the well. The shutoff valve for that pipe is below it just above the floor.

It appears the loose connection on the new well pressure switch was the root cause, as it has not happened since. The old well piping has a return line with a shutoff valve (a hydrant pump line?) Can I shut it off to avoid water from the new well traveling back to the old well and...

What is strange is that I had shut off the water early evening. Next morning, not a drop until the pressure switch contacts reluctantly engaged. Then instant pressure and instant water for all day. Thinking back, there were no sparks until I tried it again after the pressure resumed (my bad).

This is the new pump and pressure switch, unfortunately. I am hoping that the slightly loose wire was the culprit.

There sre two wells, this new one at 600' which produces water all day long, and the old 230' well which will dry pump after a few hours of steady use. Sediment could be s problem in the 600' well as there was a ton of shale in the dig, as well ss colloidal clay. By activate, i meant when there...