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Yeah, I will figure it out. Using colored caulk. Toilet in place. Nice and level. Time to whip out the caulking gun. Thanks for your support!!!

Just one 1/4" shim front and one 1/4" shim in the back.

Top of the flange, I meant.

Thanks for responding. I am using a good 3-foot level. Floor is absolutely level. Toilet base and tank is out of level left to right. Off by a full bubble. I can level by adding two 1/4" shims to left side. Toilet does not wobble at that point. Looks bad, but not sure what else to do. Is...

Hi, Just dropped in our new TOTO toilet in for a dry run. 1) Floor is perfectly level on all sides, but toilet is not when in position. This is quite obvious when the tank is on. (Don't remember this being a problem with last 30 year old toilet.) 2) The flange (which sits on the tile) is...

Thanks, Jeff. Going forward.

OK, I will give it a shot. Thanks!!!

Hi Reach4, Please is photos attached. The toilet flange sits on top of the tile..... the top being .5" from the tile floor surface. I measured the inside of the toilet base and the bottom is flush with the integral raised ceramic ring and that measures .7" high. Thanks for the quick response...

Ironically, I appear to have a toilet flange that was properly installed on the finished tile floor (back in 1989??!!). My quandary is the top of the flange is 1/2" above the floor, exceeding the 3/8" to a 1/4" height standard. Measuring the toilet clearance (TOTO) this leaves about about 1/4"...

Hi Terry. Sorry for not getting back to you on this one. I never received an email advisory, but should have checked in anyway. After mulling this over we have decided to put in a new TOTO toilet. What was vexing with the old toilet was the fact that the flush valve hole in the toilet tank was...

Jeff, Yeah, mice are a constant PITA around our house. Didn't know that about the true power of mouse jaws. I was told when packing a hole don't use steel cloth, but I heard they do hate brass scrub pads. Don't get me started on voles. ;) I appreciate the thoughts. Best, Tom

Yeah, I see you are correct. I have been finding conflicting information. One site says you need to use shielded underground due to ground shift. Another agrees with the above ground recommendation. One site mentions the reason for using shielded above ground is to thwart those little...

Thanks, Terry!! I already have a bead on one should I need it. Between your quick responses and Wayne's help I am packing for bear. I really appreciate it. You provide a great service here.

Thanks for the response, Wayne!!! That's great information. I will head down to the basement and setup a plan. Gluing up replacement fittings and pipes is the pro approach. As a note, I did find out that Fernco makes a 2" "socket to pipe coupling" the may work on the upper issue. FYI, I...

Hi Wayne, Thanks for offering to help. Pics attached. Lower Fitting is the loose fitting. Upper Fitting is the pipe cracked below the fitting. Lower is easily accessible. Upper less so. For the Upper End, simply use the Fernco coupling recommended above to rejoin the broken pipe to the...

Thanks, Terry. Fernco said I should use a shielded variety of P1056-250/22. Finding one appears to be a challenge. Doing it the "right way" would be my preference, but I have no clue how to patch in a new ABS segment without having to replace the whole system. The Fernco option seems to be my...

Got it. Thanks, Wayne!

Thanks!! May I ask, why a shielded coupling?

We have a leak in our 2" ABS water drain pipe in the basement. It is being caused be a loose fitting. I can rock the inlet pipe and water will gush out when our washing machine is being used. Is it possible to reglue this joint in place? I am wondering if capillary action will pull the glue...