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Thanks for all the guidance, guys! I will try to remember to report back here after getting the PRV rebuilt or replaced. I did buy the Watts PLT-5 ET. Should be fine after I get the dang static pressure down within range.

Ok, water heater drain confirmed at 105 p.s.i with cold and hot water dribbling. Can we say with relatively certainty that I have a failed PRV?

Thanks Reach4!

Certainly Terry's suggestion of confirming the pressure measurement "inside" the house makes sense before starting to replace the PRV. Washer tap is not easy access. Any special tricks for checking the water heater drain? Assume leave everything on? I.e. the ball valve that supplies the...

Yep, getting very suspicious of PRV at this point.

I will say, my son had just taken a shower moments before I started dribbling, so not sure how much effect that has on this measurement, but it is consistent with what I measured the other day when no one had taken a shower.

Ok, so I dribbled both hot and cold water and measured the spigot outside. About 105 p.s.i. Here is a pic.

Dumb question, but do I dribble hot water, or cold water, or does it matter?

10-4. Will try that.

The plot thickens. I found a Watts 25-75 PRV just about 6" downstream of the main shutoff ball valve for the house. I assume that the outside spigot would surely be "after" that, since that is the main source line for the whole house? Obviously I can test that, but seems odd that I have a...

Interesting. That makes sense. Would there be an easy way to see if I already have a pressure reducing valve installed? I will Google some pics and see if I can find something like that already installed. But I am guessing you are right, that that is the reason for the initial failure.

Hello, I am replacing a failed expansion tank on my water heater. I checked static pressure at an outside hose bib and found 115 p.s.i. The maximum charge pressure of the Watts tank I bought is 80 p.si., and maximum working pressure is 150 p.s.i. Seems like 115 p.s.i. is a high static...