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Terry?

Just kind of mulling around. I think the best thing would be is to not tile the wall and just use my backing nuts/washers to adjust to compensate for the excess stick out of the drain hub due to me eliminating the tile. Instead of trying to mess with the rusted hub. I don't know. Making this...

I haven't tore into it yet... but the tile is pink plastic tile. It will be torn out eventually. As you can see based on the sheetrock at the base of the floor those tiles are not very thick. What say you if I don't retile that wall? Those tiles can't be more than 1/16th of an inch thick. If...

Thanks for the support!! LOL, I feel like I've been challenged.

I know. I was going to cut around for the carrier.... Finish the wall and then adjust my carrier bolts and drain hub. Or do you mean adjust my carrier before tiling!? I'm asking if the drain hub is rusted in place how do I go about unseizing that.

But I wouldn't want to move the washers and nuts outward if the drain hub is flush with wall. I'd want it closer. If nuts are already flush with wall then I'm screwed

If rusted drain hub is flush with wall - which it will be once I tile... How do I break it loose? What do you typically do? If I adjust it out... Can I remove it and perhaps replace with with a plastic one if by chance those exist? Thanks in Advance!

This is a 4 bolt carrier I'm using from 1964. Assuming by now the drain hub is rusted in place. Any recommendations on breaking drain hub loose?? In case I can't adjust hub is it imperative that backing nuts be flush with wall or is there room for outward adjustment away from wall. If not...

Will this gasket work for both 3" and 4" waste lines? Tried the Harvey's #3 and that thing makes the bottom of the toilet bulge out about 1/8th of an inch further from wall than the top SO, to the garbage that goes. Certainly this would work without any modifications? Also, are Harvey No...

I'm not using a zurn seal. I'm using Harvey reinforced wax ring

Gerber mentions no dimension for the recess of the drain barrel nor the location of the backing nuts/washers in the installation instructions. Hm..

Terry, I have noticed you have said that the mounting dimensions for the Gerber Maxwell are the same as the newer style American Standard Glenwalls which state 5/16" for drain horn protrusion. In another post you have said 5/8's inch. Therein lies my confliction. Would hate to drive that...

Say drain barrel is rusted in place and absolutely cannot move it if I need to. How do I figure out how far backing nuts need to be in relation to the drain barrel? Is there any hard and fast way of doing it?

Wonder why you showed me those nuts? Those are HANDY! Say I only have 1 thread hanging out the flange. Might just get those. Do you know how thick flange is on the Gerbers?

My chief concern was adjusting the carrier bolts to accommodate the seal. Am I correct in my aforementioned post (post #4)?

Old nuts will not be used as the thread on one of the acorn nuts has been stripped. Will be using regular nuts. What are the extra washers for? Just to shim out so acorn nuts can fit flush? Your backing nuts are adjustable to push washer inout. You would only need the vinyl washer and the...

Reading through some posts I see Terry likes his backing nuts flush with the wall with the washer setting on top of that. Bolts protruding about 2.125" out of wall. Should work? Yes/no?

So you're saying adjust the depths of the 4 bolts to accommodate my seal? Without taking the toilet off, I am assuming the collar (The 4 inch pipe?) is cast iron. I am using a reinforced wax ring from Harvey. Bolt spread is 9 inches horizontally and 7.5 inches vertically.

Replacing 1960's pink toilet as the tank has a hairline crack. Assuming rough in can be measured off of the mounting bolts I get a little over 5.25 inch from the floor to center of bottom 2 mounting bolts. I want to get a Gerber Maxwell toilet which says 4" rough in. Assuming this will work...