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I notched here to see if the 90 bend would work, then realized I couldn't add back the blocking. But, I just spent some time with the oscillating tool and cut out a section in the vertical 2x4 and can now run the inlet behind the joist: It may just make for a tricky glue up. I'll get there.

Thanks for the reply... I will check the vertical distance between the tee hub and trap and will adjust elevation of tee accordingly. Yeah, the trap was the first thing I changed from the original layout.. it was a union trap and its now a solvent weld trap.

Got the fittings and came up with a rough layout. I had to notch the framing to get this to work. The only problem here is I've lost the right side blocking support for the toilet. It seems like every option has a drawback. This is hard.

Curious about why an inspector would not allow it? This seems like my "only" option to tie in the toilet and shower. I say only, meaning without tearing out more walls and ceilings to run all new plumbing just to correct one problem.

Ok thanks for all the help guys. I went ahead and removed the cast iron sanitary tee and vent. This is a dormer bathroom so I ran a new section of 3" pvc through the roof. The pvc in the pic is just resting on the hub below. Would a fitting like this work? Would it meet code and vent...

Basically, I need an equivalent replacement for this:

Hi All, Newbie DIY guy here. I am remodeling our bathroom and moving the shower. I inspected the existing plumbing and removed the galvanized trap arm because the threads were pretty severely rusted. The trap arm was connected to the toilet drain via a threaded connection. I thought about going...