Search results

So it's perfectly fine to just do the high loop and connect directly the DW to the DW connection on the tailpipe? I think i've just been reading too much before it's delivered and so many things about air gaps.

Air gaps not required by my local jurisdiction, just the high loop. No garbage disposal. Is there a good reason to go with an air gap instead?

Well good luck either way.

Yeah for mine it was just the GPM and length of 2" pipe for vent. Only pneumatic require dedicated according to code that my inspector was aware of. You could call your local building inspector and ask. That's what I do. That way you know 100% what will pass or not.

Oh I'm sorry I didn't realize your plumber was 100% dry, so he doesn't want to wet vent because there's no way to fix if problem, but even if you use AAV's stuff still under concrete without ability to fix if something happens. IDK, i'm sure there are plenty of wet vent under concrete without...

Yes was doing blocking for cabinetry for sure, in the kitchenette area and in bathroom for vanity/mirror/etc, but i meant like later in living area or bedroom like oh I want to hang a shelve, is there water lines behind this wall, but the picture thing with notes will work perfect.

OK but if Pit in your area requires dedicated line, why not just run 2 vent lines in same area? I mean isn't the hole in your basin 10" below grade? If something is 20' away that requires 5" down at the start. Plus why worry about 45 degree, why not run a tee into wall and vent there, vent...

Yeah you're not missing something. Sometimes I just overthink things. Thanks, this works perfectly.

If building walls, why not just vent each item in the walls or share 1 with toilet/shower at least (they within few feet of each other it seems) and then tie in ceiling of bathroom or 42" above in the wall and then tie into dedicated vent for basin. My state I was allowed to tie in kitchenette...

I am finishing my basement. My plumbing has all been inspected and passed, but I was thinking. Some of the PEX and vent piping is in the middle of wall cavities right, and the bathroom and kitchenette area share a wall. Do I just remember not to hang shelves or anything on that shared wall...

I know copper better, but i am on a budget for this. EDIT: or did you mean just to shower head, cause that I can do, only a few feet.

Yeah I'll guess I'll return it and go with a 70cfm non bluetooth fan. I honestly don't understand how a less powerful fan can use same diameter pipe and be ok. Like 70cfm can use like 90 ft 0 elbows 1 termination. Anyways, thanks for response.

You know even looking at Broan Nutone 110 CFM: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/85/85b96547-666a-4f8e-a586-4c4ecfc0b214.pdf It doesn't give a length, just the same shortest/straightest possible. Even tho their own website would say for 110, X for 4" with 0 elbows. Like how...

The code. https://up.codes/viewer/new_york/irc-2018/chapter/15/exhaust-systems#15 Table: 1504.2 Residential. Also, https://tools.broan-nutone.com/duct-length/ says it's X not allowed. Model is this: 7148-01-AX...

Sorry, I am not sure where to ask this. I am putting in a basement bathroom and the fan my wife picked out is 110cfm because it has bluetooth/alexa speakers. However, it only has a 4" vent on back, and the ventilation code I could find says 100 is 10' max smooth metal, 125 is X (so no 4"...

Why not PEX b? Do you use a?

I've tried searching and most just talk about to tub spout. I'm putting in a 3/4 bathroom in my basement, and just want to make sure I can use 1/2" PEX to a drop ear for shower head. Something like this...

Thanks.

So the elbow that is in the wall, can that be a normal 90? How does a sweep fit in there if not? Do you have a bit of the fitting come through wall instead of just some 1.5" pipe?

OK yes I understand what you are saying now, sorry and Yes I was going to make sure the flow/sanity tee was directed right way. Bit slow sometimes. Thanks.