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That type of pump is fine. The suction cup and check valve will likely be leather . They will wear out and/or dry out and need to be replaced occasionally

BTW, when you stopped using the pump last fall, did you winterize it? If you still had water remaining in the drop pipe, it may have frozen and burst the pipe anywhere above the frost line. But again, I'm assuming a standard pitcher pump. FWIW, there are hand pumps with the piston at the...

I believe that he meant above ground. Think of the check valve and down pipe as your finger on top of a straw full of water. If your finger makes a good seal with the straw, water will stay in the straw. Break that seal and the water flow out. Same thing happens with a check valve. If...

As Reach indicated in his link, your hand pump may have a check valve of sorts in the form of a leather flapper. It may not seal properly if there's no water in the pump. I used a few pitcher pumps in the past and for the last one, I removed the leather seal and replaced it with a modern...

You also need to make sure your pump is capable of producing the pressure you set as your cutoff pressure.

The American Standard 2-port diverter that I have needs to be lined up perfectly for it not to leak a bit. There are no stops on it so it's hit and miss. Good luck. Sounds like the kind of project I would think of. A one of a kind thing that no one else has done and probably for good reasons.

Your suction pipe will be under negative pressure when the pump is running. So if there is a leak, it could suck in air at the same time it is sucking in water. It will be under positive pressure only when the pump is off (assuming the only check valve is just above the Sandpoint). And just...

I don't think you ever answered the question on whether your system maintains pressure when the pump is off and there is no call for water. And if so, does it maintain pressure without dropping. That would tell us if there's a leak in the system.

Agree with Reach. You do not want a check valve between the pump and pressure tank. Without the check valve, the suction line will be under positive pressure when the pump is not running. This is a good thing. It will prevent air from getting into the line, will force the foot valve to...

The ones I've seen have a SS band but the bolt is zinc-coated steel. Unless I find one fully SS, I'd still use the worm-gear type

Not the best picture. Not sure where in Ontario you are but Princess Auto sells the t-bolt clamps. You didn't answer this question: "If you shut of power to the pump after it reaches your 35psi (or whatever the cutoff is), does it eventually go down to zero ?". And how quickly?

Since you have the sensor, which only runs on 240V, I assume your pump runs on 240V too? You should consider using a double-pole toggle switch for that. That will kill both hots to the pump.

If you shut of power to the pump after it reaches your 35psi (or whatever the cutoff is), does it eventually go down to zero ? If it does, you have a leak somewhere. Without isolation valves (just regular ball valves), it might be hard to figure out where. Post a picture of your setup if...

That pump is supposed to reach 70psi so if it can't even do 50, there's something wrong with the pump, the gauge, or both. As Valveman stated, if it got hot enough to melt the PVC fittings, it probably got hot enough to melt the impeller. Only way to know would be for you to disassemble the...

I agree with Valveman that your pump likely ran dry and melted the PVC fittings. You should not have the check valve at the pump. The only check valve should be the foot valve. The second check valve at the pump may be preventing the foot valve from closing properly. When the pump is not...

From my own experience, my own pump specs specified it could build up to 57psi. I did not know that at the time and had increased my switch to 40/60. It worked for a while but at some point, my pump would start running for a long time, never able to reach to cut-off pressure. That, in...

I don't think that was me. My first suggestion was to check the specs of your pump to see if it can build enough pressure, at least higher than the cutoff of your switch.

His first post states that he has a line going into the lake. I'd expect a foot valve there but who knows. OP will have to clarify his setup.

Agreed, but he said no other check valve other than the foot valve

I didn't see your pictures before. In the intake pipe, you have a ball valve. What's about 6" below that? Looks like brass.