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You're right Fitter (as always). At one point, I learned the hydronics part reasonably well and even designed the system, but with learning all the other trades on the house rebuild and that being idle on the hydronics for some years, it's not fresh. I think (will need to go pull the front off...

Thanks, Fitter. I will try the paper temp. There is a mixing valve and outdoor reset on this one, so system temp is dependent on outdoor conditions... lately, it's been in the mid to upper 40's over night. More of a mid-temp setup at the moment... currently it's 55F outside and targeting 113F...

I suspect 'too small' is unlikely, given it's been behaving well for a long time, but certainly something could be failing. I'll check some pressures tomorrow, for sure. Thanks for the ideas. BTW, I have been up when the flow has been happening, and the gauge appears to be pretty consistent, but...

Thanks, Reach. I have done some testing with that, but agree that could be suspect and will troubleshoot it. That said, it's been colder the lasts, with the boiler running more, though we aren't actually heating the house yet... just circulating water back and forth to the manifolds. No...

Ok, thanks John. So no indirect leaking across to the boiler (it has a LOT of air in it currently... I need to purge it), will check expansion tank and compression tank pressures. I assume if water comes out, I've got an issue there. Nothing has come out of the T&P yet.

Apologies in advance for this being lengthy... I have an odd situation going on. I have a moen flo smart water valve that has shut off the water after detecting 0.1-0.3 gpm flow for 10 minutes 6 times over the last 3 nights... only late at night. It then turns off the water. I've been up for...

Good points. On your point, perhaps the incoming cold water needs to equalize before the test. I can try air-only if the current test doesn't look good (haven't been down to check yet).

Slightly below grade with open slab, it's much more stable temp than upstairs. You have a good eye, Reach. However, I did some trickery there! The system is to the left, and what you see to the right is a stub-out for the above-garage apartment, which could be more likely to freeze in the...

Plumbers, do you disinfect your new water supply plumbing systems? While ICC (IPC) writes systems should be disinfected, the Copper Institute seems to lean away from it (if not required), and points to the Water Research Foundation's papers on corrosion "Lead and Copper Corrosion Control in New...

Thanks, Reach! I had thought about the pex expansion... but there's only 2' of it in the system. It could be, but given it dropped 10% over night, not sure. I could potentially eliminate it using a piece of copper on those sharkbites. Good thinking on the thermal expansion tank, though it is...

Unfortunately, when I attached the air chuck, some air/water snuck out and dropped the pressure significantly. I assume air dissolved into the water will come out instantaneously. But, will see what this pressure test does. I also sprayed a soap/water solution over the testing equipment, and...

Thanks, Wayne! That didn't cross my mind... I will add some more pressure and report back, though it's tough being incremental with the air. Yes, those last 3 points are on single test.

Thanks, Storm rider. with 2 offset sections, I couldn't run a fish tape, but was able to feed a wire down it, pull through some electrician's pulling twine and pull a rag through 4 times. All clean now.

TLDR; I'm air/pressure testing the water supply system snaking through one end of my house. The pressure creeps down slowly. I've checked every joint by hand at 20 minutes, and haven't detected a drop anywhere, but pressure dropped more overnight. More details below. What might be going on...

TLDR: I have some 1" copper that sat partially installed a long time, and is a bit gunky inside. Do I need to cut out the ends and physically remove the construction dust/gunk and then sanitize it? Or, is there a good flushing means to clean the walls of the pipe through flushing? Background: I...

Ok, noted and thanks. For those where length isn't an issue I did add a permanent cap. Felt better, for sure. Thanks for confirmation for filling from a lav stub out. That was what I was planning... that attachment will be a fernco coupling... hope it holds well... will probably add a couple...

I call it LAmes, too ;) The plumber knew it would be tested for the permit, even left a balloon plug for the 3" cleanup and pressure gauge. Of course, that ballon plug has now rotted, so I'm waiting for one from supplyhouse.com, given local plumbing supply is like $20 more on the same tool...

My issue with the roof is it's a bit treacherous to actually get onto (ladder on top of another peak), and then it's slippery metal standing seam. I really try to avoid it, as I've had my feet start sliding down it before. I don't see a physical issue filling from inside. Yes, this work is...

Interesting. Actually, the underground plumbing they did not test, given it tied into an existing main line. I haven't asked the inspector, but when I asked a local plumber who works in my county (guy is ready to retire), he said the county accepts both air and water testing, so I assume it's...

Thanks. I came to the conclusion a few hours ago that for the places where there were glue-in test plugs, I'd use throw a Jim cap over it, and for the other ones, I'd just glue on a regular ABS cap... that's done now. The red caps look better to me than the Jim caps. Think I should supplement...