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Turns out the problem was with the thermostat - just another sign I need to replace the Nest products with something that is more reliable.

The valve not working is the Honeywell one marked UP. The Taco valve was installed by plumber and I will mention what you suggest and see what they say when they are next here - which may be soon if I can't get the zone to work. So if I slide the lever on the Honeywell to the left and pull it...

I have a US Boiler K2 with three heating zones. 2 out of the three are working. The third zone is not delivering heat. The pipe itself feels warm to the touch, but the baseboard is cold. The thermostat - a Nest Learning one, looks like it is operating and is set to 72 and shows orange as if...

Does anyone know what the difference is between the Korky 528gt vs 528mp? One says it is specifically for Toto toilets, but the other says it fits 99% of toilets and includes Toto on the package label. The Toto specific one is 3x the price, and I have read some threads where people say there is...

This is a standard angle valve - pretty sure it doesn't do any throttling. And I'm not in NYC and our municipal water mains are not anywhere near that old.

Everything I have read in this forum and others says valves should be fully open. Plus why would this start after years of being in the open position on this toilet? Seems far more likely to me that the fill valve is the issue.

I put in a new Korky fill valve about 6 weeks ago. All was fine but in the last few days I have started noticing some humming noise as can be heard in the video - at first it was making the noise at the very end of the fill cycle, now it seems to make it mid-point of the cycle and continue...

Thanks for all your help. I was happy to get the stem out and a new one in for now. I bought a much needed wrench, all the valves for my house, and will tackle the full replacements another day. I'm sure once I get through one the rest shouldn't be too difficult.

I have a ferrule puller. That back nut isn't budging though - so that's a bit of a problem. I just put some more WD-40 on it and will try again in a little while.

0.625 is the outer dimension of the copper pipe

And I'm totally stuck. I can't turn either stem to pull them out and I don't want to exert too much pressure since the stem is plastic. I also can't separate the nut from the valve to take that off - don't know if I have to try to apply some heat to loosen it - and frankly not sure how...

Not quite sure how to measure this, but here is a better angle to see

As a follow up, I have both handles off the faucet and I'm not sure that Delta's assessment of calcium build up is correct. Looks like some sort of corrosion to me, but I could be wrong.

Looking for some advice for replacing shut off valve under bathroom sink. I started this because there is some build up on my faucet - according to Delta it is calcium build up, but whatever it is it isn't coming off using the 50-50 white vinegar and water solution recommended by Delta. But to...

I assume if I am going to try to replace the stop valve that is stuck I would need to shut the water to the whole house, unless this repair can be done with the water still on? The trap moves in and out so it isn’t glue holding it but it won’t come out. And while that isn’t where the leak was...

I came home yesterday and my sink started leaking. I went to shut the water off - hot water valve wouldn't budge. Then I went to take the drain apart and the tail in the wall won't come out. Finally, there is a piece that connects from the bottom front of the sink to the drain assembly, and I...

My plumber has suggested switching to Honeywell - I assume those are compatible?

Seems the root of the problem was the wiring diagram in the instructions that came with the power connector were incorrect. Google sent different instructions to me during support call. Their support is horrible and at the same time all of this was going on my Nest Learning Thermostat crapped...

I am not even sure I can fully express the issue I am having but I will try. A few days ago one of my 20+ year old zone valves had to be replaced by my plumber. The new valve apparently needs a c wire for the thermostat to work. My older valves did not require a c wire for heat only thermostats...