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Hi- I have an apartment that is part of a 3 story building. My apartment is the top floor. The bath vents make a gradual 90 bend out of the bath fan, using insulated flex duct, and then go straight up out through the modified bitumen torch down roof. The roof has 2 layers of 3" poly iso above...

good point. I would imagine they would go out somewhere below the frost line but that may require us to be closer to the front of the house to maintain sufficient pitch. Either way seems like it will work and not having to dig will be cheaper.

Have a kitchen and bathroom stack each near the rear of the building. Trying to prevent sewer backup through floor drains so want to switch to "overhead" sewers. Connection to the city sewer is in the front of the building. Getting some conflicting information Some plumbers have indicated that...

No comments on if it will work or not, but how are you going to "slip" it over a connection? Wouldn't you have to do so before gluing the joints?

If you have widespread faucets, the only thing I would say is that I hate the Moen 3 hole widespread faucet install mechanics. Assuming you're going to be doing this yourself, you may want to stick with Delta. I just did 12 Moen and loathed every minute. They still use regular nut so need to...

I've got an inspection coming up soon. I don't think they're going to look at this shut off (just a shut off for a bathroom). I think I'll wait for that to be over and then try my luck in case I get into a bind. Don't want to fail the inspection because there is no water to the bathrooms!

Your analysis is correct. I was thinking I would cut the section of pipe just right of the valve first, so that I can freely wiggle out that street 90 (to your point, needing to move towards the camera and left of the picture) i could first turn the pipe counter clockwise and then pull it out...

Can you clarify on the first part? What do you mean? Cut it to get water out and then heat it and put a repair coupling right over the existing piece? The repair couplings look like they come in 6" length. Is that intended to be cut to size that you need basically? Vs. a standard slip coupling...

incredibly detailed reply. Thank you! Pipes above don't really interfere thankfully (at least doesn't appear that way). I was hoping not to touch the vertical pipe on the right side, does that need to come out in order to get the valve back in and everything fitted together? Or can I do it by...

This was installed about a year ago. Developed minor leak here recently on left side of the valve where soldered. Thinking I’ll cut section just right of the valve, unsweat the valve, then use stopless coupling to reconnect. Kind of worried about how to get everything to fit though given the...

Damn thats a solid idea. I have some left over shelving material from the cabinet installs. Should look clean with same wood as cabinet. maybe couple pin nails or the quick set spray glue stuff to avoid putting a stray into the pipe lol!!

Just quick update here. The bit worked it seems. Took some time to cut through all of that but ultimately works. Left a small OD around the cut area of the old pipe but with the friction from cutting it basically peeled off. Hole left behind was a little loose but I used a ton of primer and glue...

Installed under sink plumbing, stub out was very short so hub of the wye is up against the back wall of the cabinet. Tried may different size but nothing seems to fit. 2" escutcheon won't work since this is going over the hub. Any thoughts? I believe the exterior diameter of a 2" pvc coupling is...

Great, thank you for your help, always appreciated!

I found this in my plumbing bag. Must have bought it when i found it on sale a while back. Good enough or is this one of the knock offs? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NA9W08M/

Correct, want to include a cleanout. However, using a 2x2x2 wye, I would have to use a bushing or reducer out of the center. Thats why I want to pick up the 2x 1.5 x 2 wye, so I can avoid using a bushing. I don't think enough space to use a reducer anyways. Just looks neater/cleaner and easier...

You're saying the coupling may have a shallower connection than the wye?

What would you do if it was your sink? I ordered this I think I'm going to switch out the wye to one of these to use less fittings. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-P601-257-2-x-1-1-2-x-2-PVC-DWV-Wye Dishwasher set up works too?

Assuming the stub out is good enough, is this a quality setup?i just dry fit it, any room for improvements? Was debating finding a wye that had 1-1/2 straight out and 2” off to the side instead. This is all I had at the moment though.

Cabinet guys cut this way short, if I attach wye here to add drain + clean out is that connection point going to leak? Should I get the hub saver instead and attach longer pipe or is that riskier? 2” pvc. Have a few other similar ones, what’s the minimum length I should feel ok about using...