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I've never had to plunge, and it doesn't rock as far as I know. But I will pay attention now and try one last time for a good seal. Thanks all.

I installed the Toto two-piece Drake (this one, I think) this past summer and after a few months it started leaking at the bottom. I had a plumber come take a look, and he installed an extra thick wax ring and said that was most likely the problem, but that if it continued to leak the problem is...

No leaks! All set. Thanks for the help everyone, especially Reach!

Hi Reach. I took it apart and it looks like I have it lined up exactly, and then I definitely overtightened (newbie mistake). I watched a YouTube and a guy said that that connection is particularly finicky—it has to be lined up just right. Do-over! Good thing those washers are cheap.

How tight should the fittings be? I've got them as hand tight as I could, but I still have a slow leak on the left side and a significant drip on the right. Both leaks are at the tail end of the P-trap! Maybe the plastic washers didn't seat properly.... could that be it?

Great! Now to button everything up. Thanks for all your help, Reach.

Okay bought a tailpiece extension, and now all the fittings will fit. Is this arrangement an acceptable installation? I mean, is it okay that the P-trap is turned like this, and not lined up exactly with the trap adapter?

Okay so here's where I'm at with this. The whuchamacallit is pushed as far as it will go into the trap adapter (which I still haven't glued). Things aren't lining up. I could cut it shorter, but the P-trap isn't low enough to connect. I just bought this kit from the store. What are my options at...

I found this image online. Looks like what I'm shooting for, yes?

Hi Reach. When you say inline, do you mean lined up on the same plane? If so I think both tailpieces are pretty close to being aligned with the trap adapter (the plumber said he measured). However, there's a good 6 inches from the wall. I haven't glued it yet... should I get the adapter as...

Update: I just cut the pipe closer to the wall. I'm about to glue on the 1 1/2" hub/trap adapter. Everything look good so far? I just estimated on where to cut the pipe (just so it's closer to the wall), as I didn't think it was mission critical. Right? :)

Behind cabinet doors. Is there any standard on how far below the sink drain the P-trap should be? Also, should I install some kind of clean-out? Thanks, Reach.

Hello, it's been a while. The bathroom remodel is a slooow go, but I just successfully installed my new Toto toilet, the New Drake (btw, not a huge fan because of the low-water level in the bowl). For my next and final trick, I've got the double vanity (rough plumbing pictured below). I need to...

I think I'm going to skip the baseboard altogether, and just lay down some backer rod and seal with silicone.

Hi HJ — Thanks for taking the time. I had considered that option a while back, thinking that I would just run the baseboard along the entire length of the wall and have the cabinet stick out 3/4" from the wall. I suppose that's one option, but then I have the issue I mentioned in my original...

Hello. I'm installing a freestanding vanity against the wall pictured below. The wall is 62 1/2" and the vanity measures 60" so there will be a small gap on both sides, which I'm okay with. As you can see from the picture, I installed a vinyl floating floor, and I'm trying to figure out how I...

Thank you all for your considered input and advice. I went under the house to see if I could just cut out the old pipe and replace it with ABS, but then I saw this giant chunk of cast iron and gave up on that idea. Which brought be back to what Reach first suggested way back, which is to simply...

Well now here's another issue I just noticed, actually two. First, the top of the flange is set lower than the top of the pipe! So I'm going to have to add an extension in order to use the wax-free seal. I assume the foam-rubber gasket must sit on a flat surface in order to seal properly...

I'd love to install a new flange, but mine is caulked in with lead, and I'm sure it will not be easy to remove it. I'd have to buy a torch, another expense, and the flange is sitting on wood planks, so I'm worried about starting a fire too. Then I'd probably have to cut the pipe, as you say...

Well I'm an idiot. Yep, no two ways about it. I tried one of those cheapie bolt extractor tools this morning, but my adjustable wrench kept sliding off. Then the light bulb turned on. This is too simple, so I'm running it by you all to see if I'm overlooking anything obvious. Answer: Just drill...