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I'd probably agree with the seller's recommendation unless your sink has an overflow. Water getting into the overflow would bypass that seal.

I'm not a pro but don't all frost free hose bibs have an attached piece of pipe? That would imply that you have to remove a portion of the existing pipe whether the existing bib is soldered or screwed.

Hold the tub spout while you open the valve. That should prevent the spout from vibrating due to the force of water going out. The vibration of the pipe and everything it's connected to could be making the noise.

Did you deburr the inside of your pipes before soldering? That could make a whistling sound at high speeds. Probably not a crackling sound though. And you're sure the sound is coming from the elbow and not the valve? And does it do it with both hot and cold water?

Check the aerator on the faucet. It could be clogged with sediment. The aerator is the part where the water comes out. It should just unscrew with your fingers. If you need to use pliers, and you don't have non-marring pliers, put a few layers of tape around the aerator to protect the finish.

Is the underside of that circular part threaded? Could you screw a jar on it? To me, it looks like an inline deodorizer that feeds a deodorant via siphoning action on every flush

It probably does. But I only have a two conductor cable to the pump house. If I want 240v, I'd need another (underground) wire. I know I could use the existing two wires for 240v but I'd have to give up the 120v, which I need for other stuff. The temperature valve trips at 40C if I remember...

Was that an analogy to something else ?:p

@Valveman , the Cycle Sensor only works with 230V, right ? No 115V model if I recall? I had the exact same issue as the OP and considered a Cycle Sensor at the time. But I seem to remember that it only worked with 230V and I did not have 230V at my pump. What I did was put a...

To the OP, I don't want to speak for Reach but I think what he was trying to imply is that standing water in your vent does not mean the root cause is a venting issue but rather a clogging issue. In other words, you probably have a clog, which is causing the vent to fill up with water, and both...

I provided the Amazon link and the specs above. Yes, it does have a garden hose adapter for the discharge. I would think that a garden hose will reduce the flow rate. There are other models with different specs and price points available to you as well. The specs should give you both the...

I'd use a two pump systems well. The pump you already have with a float switch (the float switch could probably be made to work to a depth of 4"-6"). And then the utility pump for the remainder. I own that pump and the flow rate is about 1000 gph, depending on head. Note that the...

You can tell from the picture of that pump that it won't go very low. Don't know why you bought it. Bannerman gave you a good suggestion. I have this one, which will go to 1/8" from the bottom according to the specs...

That's a question for a new post. And who knows, maybe you'll find out that you need a CSV :p

Well, if it bothers you so much, you can always put someone on ignore. And if Terry Love objects to Valveman's posts about his product, he would have told him by now. Personally, I find it to be educational. Posting something not relevant to the OP's question is hardly helpful to him or her...

Geez RSole, any particular reason you have the need to troll on this site? You carry your name well!

Agreed for the submersible, but that require getting a well dug. I already have a sandpoint, hence why I still want to continue using a shallow well pump . With the piston pump being really simple to operate, i'm sure I can teach the next generation to take care of it.

Hi, I have a shallow well with a jet pump at the cottage. It's working well but is always a pain to set up at the start of the season. To prime it, I have to fill the entire suction line (50ft of 1-1/4" poly pipe) with water. If there is air in the suction line for whatever reason, the pump...

I was losing prime because a fitting was sucking air when running. It was not leaking water when pressurized though. You might be able to detect if a joint is sucking air by applying shaving cream. If my system was maintaining pressure when I was not using water, I would not suspect the foot...

I'd probably open up the wall and see if I could lower the waste pipe. Regardless, you'd still want the waste pipe to be lower than the drain otherwise your sink will always have water. You'd probably also want it lower than the actuator arm for the popup stopper.