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Just from my experiences with CPVC you get to gee hawing around anywhere near it and it will split. Worse case scenario I've had is a lengthwise split that was not visible after cleaning the pipe and installing a new valve.

Try twisting them first, the cone part must be wedged into the faucet.

Just my opinion and I'm not a plumber by trade but cutting CPVC pipe that has any age on it isn't fun. What valve you use will be the least of the job as you start to cut that pipe. In many cases if you try a PVC cutter it will shatter like glass, especially the hot water pipes.

If you removed the nuts just pull them out, Looks like PVC supply lines.

I just opened and used some of a new bag Sharkbite 3/4" copper rings and they were fine. My 1/2" bag is a little older and they're fine.

They soldered into the end which is how that is designed, either threaded fitting or soldered copper.

I'm not a plumber. Not sure which valve you have leaking. That looks like 2 Sharkbite fittings on either end of that PEX pipe. I'd cut the pipe, remove the Sharkbites, replace whatever valve and then reassemble it all. I would use threaded fittings with the appropriate connection method either...

Anyone have any experience with an electric descaler? I've seen them advertised and didn't understand or see how they worked. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X7XYKRB/?coliid=I3327GW1EJYMP&colid=3CTGHDXOD2JP7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Measure from the wall to the flange bolt and see what you get. Then look at the paperwork for the toilet and see what it's measurement is.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-dia-Brass-PEX-Adapter-Elbow-Crimp-Fitting/1000182985

What can I say, it worked for me. When the toilet shut off it would trigger the hammer and I traced it back to the pipes to the water heater which would really get to vibrating. Turning up the pressure was a no cost easy enough to try thing so it's what I did and the hammer stopped. I was...

I should have been more clear. I had a PRV problem with pressure fluctuating. I replaced the PRV and after that I started having the water hammer with 1 toilet. I replaced the fill valve, which didn't fix the problem. I called the PRV company and they suggested raising the pressure a few pounds...

I had a similar problem with 1 toilet in the house. I raised the pressure on my PRV a few pounds and it quit. I'm on municipal water here. I also installed a Korky water valve in the toilet, it had a Fluidmaster FWIW.

I'm not a plumber. When my PRV went bad it made noise and also the water pressure would fluctuate, you could tell when showering as it fluctuated. If you think the pressure is rising because of the water heater shut the water heater off and see what happens.

FWIW I only buy the small cans since I hate PVC so I don't fool with it except for drains. Small can if it seems compromised I toss it and I'm not out much. I find that between jobs if I don't tighten the cap with pliers it goes bad quickly.

interesting subject. New AO Smith WH instructions say to pull it at 6 mos and inspect. I would use a cordless impact instead of trying to hold the heater and try and unscrew it with a breaker bar and socket.

I wouldn't bow the metal by tightening the screws. If anything, I would use shims like toilet shims behind the metal, so it is secure then figure out some trim to hide the sin.

Yeah, but your house is too far away for me to use your bathroom.

I can't see any "pushing them up" as a way to get any better. I can see how a couple of fittings and a crimp tool it could be made to look professional.

I'm not a plumber. I have set tubs and the level part of the tub is more for the surrounding walls and especially tile. The tub does have slope built in and you level the flange. Have they already tiled the walls around the tub? If so and they tear it out depending on what the put behind it...