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Both the Navien and a Rheem power vent will pretty much take care of his problems.... I just am not a fan of the maintaince that is necessary with the tankless units..... In the midwest with the hard water the tankless units have to be de-limed once a year and companies are chargeing...

Just throw a 50 gallon rheem power vent water heater in place of that junk.... you can use the pvc venting and all else should be very easy to do

sometimes i wonder why they even sell gas heaters in hardware stores to anyone with money and absolutely no idea what they are doing........ It kind of scares me when you read threads like this and they are installing gas heaters in their homes.... Someday HD and Lowes will probably get...

YES, they come out a whole hell of a lot easier than a nut that was driven into the heater with an impact wrench 10 years ago.......

You guys hsould leave the anode rod alone in older units.... rheem rods hardly ever come out without a terrible, terrible fight... and I have given up on even thinking about removing one...... just go buy an segmented rod with a nipple on it and install it on the hot water side of the water...

you should fill it up with pea gravel, all slabs we have ever done have been in pea gravel because it does not move or settle much..... its abundant around the mid west and is used in most all slab homes putting a few bricks under the pipes is always wise to keep it from sagging

Do like he says,,, just paint the body of the valve, and maybe throw a cover over the valve to protect it from the sun even an old towell would work just fine

If you can take it back and have not taken it out of the box , then that is the best path to take... So why did you buy a propane gas heater if you needed a natrual gas one???

I had an expansion tank do that to me a long time ago with an Autotrol....probably back in 1993 throw a swing check valve into the out going line off the water softener or a spring loaded check valve to stop the water from moving back and forth through the control...

I just had one of my heaters that was only 10 years old in a condo start to leak and I can tell you that those cheap shitty OATY pans that were the best you could buy 10+ years ago will leak just from the weight and compression of heating and cooling will eventually grind a hole through that...

That is a fairly old heater.... best to leave sleeping dogs lie .. Install a new unit and install it in a drain pan

I honestly dont think it will make a dam bit of difference... you are worrying too much I would stick with the black plastic fittings as I have had great luck with the wirsob uponar joints for a long while now.....

Everything eventually fails for one reason or another..... Sch40 pvc pipe is supposed to be good when installed out of UV light for about 900+ years . Look at flint Michigan when some DEI hire decided to get water from another source and it was corrosive to the system leaching tons of lead...

I have never used the pro press fittings as of yet.... They work fine but I never have had a need for them so far and the propress tool alone is costing somewhere around 1500 --2k?? I would have to bring the tool in from my truck every night just for safe keeping....:D I suppose if you...

I though that would solve hte problem please give me a good review on Google.....if you can find the time weilhammerplumbing.com

You need to take a screwdriver and reach under the flu bonnet and sort of give the flu baffle that comes up through the middle of the heater few good taps to re-adjust it.... this baffle just hangs inside the chimney and slows down the heat as it rises up the flu.... sometimes it just sort of...

The only thing you could do at this point is install a back washing carbon filter before the water softener to get the chlorine and chlormines out of the water... That would cost you about 1800 in my town for a 2 cubic foot unit I dont know if this would be throwing good money after bad...

I have a few of them out there but I have been very careful not to put any stress on the top nipples .... I hooked them up with ss flex connectors and strapped the thermal tank to the ceiling instead of letting the weight sit on the tank....... 10 years old keeps you out of the insurance loop...

The common power vent gas wh does not need a air intake from the outside.... it just comes standard that way They do make a unit that takes in air from the outside but they are very expensive and very, very rare and hard to find .... I tried to get one for some cusomer one time in Bradford...

you could also just throw in a 50 gallon power vent and put it out the side of the house instead of the roof all it takes is a puny 2 inch pvc vent which can be run up to 60 feet across.... does not need an air intake neither ...