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you will have to turn off the water and take it out and go to lowes or menards to find a similar one ..

Just See how far the flange will raise up for you .... Shim up under the flange with some heavy duty plywood cut out in a half moon pattern to fit from the top and bottom side of the flange..... if it is enough to work then I suggest you nail down the plywood and screw down the flange...

for the love of god just test the fuc/ing water.... just install a CLACK and let this thread die a honorable death Install a Clack Iron filter if necessary too........

This thread is giving me a head ache reading all this minutia..... Why not just get a Clack 48,000 grain water softener and see how it handles the iron .. Or you could just throw in a Clack iron filter before the Clack softener and then you have covered all the bases without trying to...

You have to be nuts to even want to attempt this..... leave it alone and find something else to fool with

Thats great... how about a 5 star good review on google for the free advice??? take care

I got a neighbor on a well and he only has orange water on the hot side of his home the cold side is perfectly clear... The heater was a 2005 unit so we started there and changed it out yesterday and as we drained the heater it did come out a light orange color so I assumed the heater was...

What size vent are you planning on installing..>>>??? If this is not the main vent for the home I would suggest Just throwing an auto air vent on that line and forget about it.....

They all work just fine.... so maybe the glue will fail in 275 years instead of 500 years who is gonna be around to file a complaint???

ABS and PVC glue together just fine..... I have had to do it many times and being a vent it is not even an issue If you are worried about it just go buy a can of pvc glue that is specifically made to join these plastics together for probably 15 bucks... but any normal glue will actually do...

Interesting idea. Maybe some plastic central air conditioner condenser pad would be a good insulating pad. But wait... a plastic water heater pan is made strong enough for full water heaters, and would also electrically insulate. Also, I am wondering if a clamp-around ammeter around each WH...

Everyone is giving you good advice on things that could remedy your issues.... a long while back in the early 90s, I was installing the heaters on wooden 2x4s thinking it would break contact between the basement floor and the water heater.... I was never back on any of these heaters later on...

You can believe whatever you want to...... I know its wise to throttle down pumps to only run maybe twice a day when their is the most activity.... if for no other reason than to conserve electricity instead of having the elements constantly re-heating the water 24-7... I KNOW for a...

you have to understand that this is all really close to Vo-doo .... but grounding the heaters better cannot hurt anything.... the powered anode rods dont hurt neither... or so they claim checking the main ground at the breaker box to the ground rod out in the yard is a good idea too...

Being that they were thrown way back in a crawl space all of mine still had the copper coils in them.... WW1 and WW2 scrap drives for metal made them pretty scarce and hard to find. .intact

I think that they used to be called "side arm" water heaters that came off the boiler and they heated the water in the home off the heat from the boiler..... I have asked about this before and wondered how this was efficient in the summer time when most boilers for heat were turned off or...

You will probably burn out the pump or the switch over time without a check valve in the line..... if the line is in a heated area in the crawl space then all you have to worry about is where it exits the building that needs to be insulated or you pipe it above the exit pipe so it has to fall...

Well, you are out of the woods if they have lasted 10 years...... around here your liability for any approved products is only one year from date of installation.... I try my best to steer clear of all poly line repairs .... and their is also some ki-tech junk out in the world that...

we have found the only sure way to transition from poly to pex is the sharkbite couplings... they have never given us a problem and I have no desire to crimp anything that old poly junk and see it split longways of course it is better to get rid of all that poly stuff before it rears its ugly...

I generally use copper these days,, I will throw in the wirsbo aquapex on occasion but I pity the fools that have had these issues with the deteriotion of cast iron and other materials..... I dont need the lawsuits