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Decades ago I used lengths of ¾" plywood to sandwich rough cut rafters in my father's home from 1894.

We currently have ten of the brass transition fittings that have been in place for over a decade with no issues. (New shower faucet... bathroom faucet ..... kitchen faucet.... water heater & exterior faucet )

Today's reality is the only fittings available out there for the polybutylene is the Qest compression type and they do not last ..... I have a drawer full of them from decades ago and finding sources has become rare. For any change such as a new water heater or a new faucet etc .... the Pex...

Our personal experience over 40+ years has been the PolyB "fittings" & crimps are the weak spots most likely to eventually leak.

I have the same POLY-B crap with hard well water ........ but I've only used the brass conversions. Never noted the SS versions until today. I have a large toolbag full of the various fittings including some Sharkbite ... but I prefer not to use them for a permanent fix ... just emergencies...

"Maybe I’ll add 14 psi. to the new tank and start using it. That will make a total of 28 psi. in both pressure tanks 2 psi. below the pumps cut on psi." Wow.

The method we use every six months is using a wet vac with a 3 foot length of automotive heater hose attached through the bottom element hole. Works quite well.

Yes they are.

None of the factory compression type drains will pass sediment of any great size and I experienced an issue decades ago of sediment becoming caught under the washer and creating a slow leak. That was a miserably long day. I now replace the drain valves immediately ... the first thing we do on a...

Good to know when a post helps someone.

1 - Historically some years the sediment reachs the bottom rod within the six months ... which is why I mentioned I only use the straight high density elements in the bottom. 2- The most efficient means of cleaning an electric heater that we've found is through the bottom element hole using a...

I can't imagine ever building a house in the northeast without a provision for the utilities inside the heated envelope. Murphy's law says crap goes bad in February.

A 20 gallon pressure tank only holds about 7 gallons of water below the air bladder. If the tank is not holding water it could be the tank or there's a leak in the well pipes or pump check valve. Shut off the pump .... open a faucet to drop all water pressure and check the pressure tank air...

I'll share some crap I learned the hard way over half a century. Replace the drain valve with a 3/4" ball valve with one made for flushing now before installation. Primarily because it will not only assist if you try to flush the tank .... but it will empty twice as fast, The factory...

Looks straight forward to me if you obtain a heater using 4500 watt elements (which is common). The heater you listed looks to be a compatible replacement.

Looks a bit like my father's did decades ago. I sprayed it with FluidFilm after a gentle clean up.

It's a moot point as long as the position is above the tank water level & circumvents the siphon effect.

I also had the same set up. I suspect it was done to close and hold the system at the pressure tank ....... but all it does is disguise problems with the check valve at the pump. And if the check valve at the pump does develop a leak it creates other issues like hammer. The above ground check...

My first guess would be the pressure tank air setting is off. Did you set the air pressure properly in the pressure tank ....... meaning several psi lower than the actual start water pressure of the pump. I see you have a 30/50 switch but it could be off several psi either way ... the switches...

In areas where I'm concerned about freezing I've put remote thermometers so I can monitor what is really going on. I have them near the piping that comes through the slab from the well and in a heated areas of the garage were we store paint etc. Money well spent