Capping Iron Pipe

Users who are viewing this thread

Darkflux

New Member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Midwest America
I have an old Iron Pipe coming up out of a large 2 foot high cement slab in my basement (presumably from an old now non-existent septic tank). I would like to cut it off close to the cement and cap it off.

I was going to use a SharkBite Push-To-Connect adapter, but apparently they do not support Iron Piping? Anybody have a best recommended solution for this scenario? I hate to take the time to destroy some nice-looking cement just to make the area look a little nicer and reclaim some "air space".

The old piping is so rusted and old that it looks like it will snap if I just look at it funny, much less try to remove all of the fittings and elbows, and the piece coming out of the cement goes out like 3 feet before the first threaded end is found :(
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,727
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
Is the pipe capped off? Any water when the cap is off? Cut it where you want it, stuff a rag down the pipe about four inches then fill it with hydraulic cement.
 

Darkflux

New Member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Midwest America
hmm...sounds good, but I'd hate to have a jagged edge just sticking out of cement, on the (hopefully) rare chance that somebody might slip and fall onto it...
 

Marlinman

In the Trades
Messages
915
Reaction score
420
Points
63
Location
Jacksonville Florida
An offset adapter for a reciprocating saw make flush cuts easy.
1670172367499.png
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail on a Cancer Drug Started 1/31/24. ☹
Messages
5,727
Solutions
1
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
about 1-1/4 inch. very old and very corroded and nasty looking.
Get a "side grinder" and metal cutting/grinding disc. After it is cut you can grind it down. It's a tool you might need once a year but nothing else compares to it when needed. Harbor Freight has low cost units that won't break the bank and for an occasional use around the home it is well worth it. Don't get the $15 unit.

1670195589622.png
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,766
Reaction score
2,168
Points
113
Location
92346
I used grinders every day mostly good ones around the hous I have 2 one cheap HF grinder totaly does the job for occasional use.
why not do what you said with the hydrolic cement and then just slip a pvc cap over it no one will get hurt by a jagged edge and looks clean
 

Darkflux

New Member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Midwest America
I used grinders every day mostly good ones around the hous I have 2 one cheap HF grinder totaly does the job for occasional use.
why not do what you said with the hydrolic cement and then just slip a pvc cap over it no one will get hurt by a jagged edge and looks clean
i will probably do the SharkBite thing:

with a PVC cap:

slightly cheaper than an iron cap (and slightly softer!).

thanks for the advice everybody :)

P.S., if i were to go get an angle grinder, i would probably just cut it down to the surface of the cement, then lay a fresh cement surface on the whole area
 

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
i will probably do the SharkBite thing:

with a PVC cap:

slightly cheaper than an iron cap (and slightly softer!).

thanks for the advice everybody :)

P.S., if i were to go get an angle grinder, i would probably just cut it down to the surface of the cement, then lay a fresh cement surface on the whole area
That sharkbite fitting in your link won't fit into iron pipe size. You need one designed to fit pvc sched 40. Lowes has them in my area. They look a little different than the copper tube size ones.
 

Darkflux

New Member
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Midwest America
That sharkbite fitting in your link won't fit into iron pipe size. You need one designed to fit pvc sched 40. Lowes has them in my area. They look a little different than the copper tube size ones.
hmm...well it looks like those only go up to 1":

John G. up above seemed to think i could fit a standard SharkBite if i sanded the pipe down a bit. and i have a sander...
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
From your description, adding a Sharkbite does not seem to be worthwhile. If I understand correctly, that this pipe never emits water, I would grind the pipe flush with the concrete, using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I expect what I call an angle grinder is another term for side grinder. Don't worry about marring the concrete near the pipe.

Then fill, as suggested with hydraulic cement. Hydraulic cement does not shrink as it hardens. If you use a concrete mix, push any bigger rocks down into the pipe, so that only fine-grained cement is left on top. Smooth the top of the cement flat with a broad knife (big putty knife) or an old credit card.

I did not work out the volumes, but I expect a 4 lb pack would have a lot left over.
 
Last edited:
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks