Replacing gas cooktop, need to cap off natural gas shutoff valve

Users who are viewing this thread

Vdawg

Member
Messages
49
Reaction score
7
Points
8
Location
FL
I am replacing my natural gas cooktop with induction. The house is new (2022 construction) and has a 1/2" brass gas shutoff valve under the cooktop. It has an adapter on the out-feed side to connect the flex supply line that goes to the cooktop. I intend to remove the flex line and adapter from the shutoff valve, leaving the female end, which I want to plug:

IMG20220701102202.jpg


When I looked up 1/2" brass plugs on the Lowes website, I found this: https://tinyurl.com/ycxaz94r. It says it's for use with water, but doesn't mention gas. Are there special brass plugs rated specifically for use with natural gas? I could remove the valve, too, and use a galvanized cap on the threaded stub-out, but I'd like to leave the valve in place if possible to allow for more easily going back to gas for a future homeowner who may want that. But if I need a special brass fitting that I can't find, that may be my only option.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
a gal or black plug works too also they make a cap to go over the flared fitting often the flare is built into one side of the gas valve and the new house will have a cap on like when the house is ready for new owner and dryer isn't yet installed it often has a valve with cap on end
 

Vdawg

Member
Messages
49
Reaction score
7
Points
8
Location
FL
Thanks for your reply. This valve looks like it might be FIP on both ends and the cooktop (out) side appears to have a MIP-to-flared adapter threaded into it to accept the flex line, but I won't be sure until I disassemble it. If so, is it ok to leave that adapter and put a flared cap on it? I read some place that you weren't supposed to reuse flared fittings, but not sure if that applies here. I guess I'd also like to remove that adapter as it's just one more connection that could leak. :)
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
Thanks for your reply. This valve looks like it might be FIP on both ends and the cooktop (out) side appears to have a MIP-to-flared adapter threaded into it to accept the flex line, but I won't be sure until I disassemble it. If so, is it ok to leave that adapter and put a flared cap on it? I read some place that you weren't supposed to reuse flared fittings, but not sure if that applies here. I guess I'd also like to remove that adapter as it's just one more connection that could leak. :)
its not a worry but. a standard cap is better because its stronger than a ball valve but totally safe and rugged. The flare cap is simple safe and easy. A flared gas valve can be reused multiple times but a flexible gas connector the corrugated tubing is recommended for one time use .
 

Vdawg

Member
Messages
49
Reaction score
7
Points
8
Location
FL
its not a worry but. a standard cap is better because its stronger than a ball valve but totally safe and rugged. The flare cap is simple safe and easy. A flared gas valve can be reused multiple times but a flexible gas connector the couragated tubing is recommended for one time use .
Thanks! I finally disassembled the gas cooktop connection (flex supply) to the gas supply/valve, and it turns out the valve was FIP on the supply side and MIP on the "out" side (not flared). So I ended up getting a standard MIP brass cap and installed it on the valve with thread sealant. I turned the gas on with the valve open and tested for leaks at the cap and on the "in" side of the valve with some leak detector fluid I picked up at the same time and it showed no bubbles. Closed the valve and installed the induction top. :)
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
Thanks! I finally disassembled the gas cooktop connection (flex supply) to the gas supply/valve, and it turns out the valve was FIP on the supply side and MIP on the "out" side (not flared). So I ended up getting a standard MIP brass cap and installed it on the valve with thread sealant. I turned the gas on with the valve open and tested for leaks at the cap and on the "in" side of the valve with some leak detector fluid I picked up at the same time and it showed no bubbles. Closed the valve and installed the induction top. :)
great sounds totally safe !
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks