Pressure testing my waterlines

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Paul Blakely

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I'm finally getting around to doing an air pressure test on the PEX waterlines I've installed. I probably should have tied the hot and cold together before running them into the empty hot water tank, but this should work anyway.

Except I'm having a very frustrating time trying to identify why I can't hold the pressure. I've attached the pressure gauge to the exterior faucet for my test.
Almost all the rough-in lines are capped off, except the laundry that has a shut-off for both hot and cold in the box. AND except for two exterior faucets that have anti-siphon valves attached. Could it be that the anti-siphon valves are allowing the pressure to drop?
Thanks for any assistance.
 

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Breplum

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Yes, probably the anti-siphon valves are the issue.
There is hardly any reason to air test first, just add water; which you can't do via an antisiphon valve either.
 

Paul Blakely

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Yes, probably the anti-siphon valves are the issue.
There is hardly any reason to air test first, just add water; which you can't do via an antisiphon valve either.
I thought it was standard operating procedure to do an air test first to avoid a mess. But since I haven't insulated and can still see all the lines, wet test may be the most efficient way to proceed.
Thanks for the response. I was looking at my email to see if anyone had responded didn't receive any headup. I just came here to the forum and saw your response this morning. Thanks so much.
 

John Gayewski

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Air tests are good for certain situations. Mostly not needed. When I do a large pro press or solder job I do air test to make sure nothing was missed. Hydronic lines that will be buried. On a remodel just turning the water on should be fine.
 
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