Move supply for new vanity

Users who are viewing this thread

broyo

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
Hello all. Have what is likely an incredibly simple pro task but am DIYing it.

Need to move the cold shutoff a few inches to the left to compensate for the new vanity having a stack of drawers on the right side and only about 2 inches of clearance behind them when closed (i.e. not enough room for the shutoff as currently configured). The new vanity open area will just clear the drain so I should be OK there but the cold line will need to move inline with it or to its left:

20210927-114629.jpg


While I haven't haven't cut and soldered copper before, I leaning towards doing so vs sharkbites and/or PEX. My current idea is to cut out the old cold water shutoff section and replace it with a tee going sideways into an elbow sweeping forward into a new shutoff:
newshutoff.png


My question: Am I going in the correct direction here? Am I missing any better/more obvious solutions? If my idea is correct, any implementation details I should keep in mind?

P.S. As I said, I don't think I'll need to mess with the drain other than maybe spin the trap a bit, but wondering why it appears to be a mix of PVC and ABS? And why they appear to be glued together? My reading indicated that that wasn't allowed. Why isn't it all-PVC? Should it be? Pretty sure it's original (circa 1996) as it's the same in the other bathrooms in the house. Anyway, just wondering...
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
You might try a photo from above. Your blue line is moving the valve a lot more than 2 inches. I am thinking maybe an elbow on the existing tee, instead of the valve, and another elbow to turn back out of the wall.

Not supply-related, but I would be rid of the glued trap, and put in a trap adapter that will accept a slip-joint trap. Or does your city not allow a slip-joint trap?
 

broyo

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
Ah, sorry, let me clarify with some more photos. The 2 inches is the clearance behind the vanity drawer to the wall, not the leftward movement needed to clear the drawers (which is maybe 6 inches).

Here's a shot of the top of the new vanity:
20210927-141308.jpg


And some further measurements of the current layout:
20210927-142323.jpg


20210927-142359.jpg


I though about elbowing over as you suggest, but I don't know that I have enough clearance on the current tee to be able to still be behind the drywall?

As for the trap, I haven't researched local regs but am open to replacing it if need be.
 

John Gayewski

In the Trades
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1,319
Points
113
Location
Iowa
For future reference hold the tape measure beside the pipe, not covering it. That way we can see the actual connection. The easiest way to do it would be to spin the tee. That's a bit of a pro move though.

Other than that, cut and couplings. It looks like someone already put a coupling in there so you might as well cut that out.

You can make as many solder joints as possible before you put your new peice in the wall. That'll save you some anxiety. Then just insert you new piece and sweat the two coupling.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
Somebody can solder two elbows into place, or you could use two Sharkbite elbows. A plumber could make short work of that. Your photos show that the path is clear. You still would have to cut holes in the cabinet.

Your glued-in trap is unlikely to line up under the sink.
brass-sharkbite-brass-fittings-u248lfa-64_100.jpg
The sharkbites will turn, so you would need to clamp the pipe somehow.
 

broyo

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
For future reference hold the tape measure beside the pipe, not covering it. That way we can see the actual connection. The easiest way to do it would be to spin the tee. That's a bit of a pro move though.

Other than that, cut and couplings. It looks like someone already put a coupling in there so you might as well cut that out.

You can make as many solder joints as possible before you put your new peice in the wall. That'll save you some anxiety. Then just insert you new piece and sweat the two coupling.

Thanks, yes, that's what I was thinking. Spinning the tee (then adding an elbow) is basically the end result that I want, though I agree I'm unlikely to be able to spin it myself (I assume I'd have to de-solder the two join then hope it cooperates), so cutting it out and adding in a new tee + extension + elbow seems the way to go.

As for just using two elbows instead, I'll attach one last picture (one that doesn't cover the connection...sorry about that)
20210927-195434.jpg

as there's only about 1 3/8" between the vertical pipe and the back of the drywall, it'd seem to me that the only way I'd be able to make that initial 90 inside the wall would be to use an elbow that went OVER the existing tee such that it was as flush to the pipe as possible. I didn't think such a thing existed (you'd end up with 3 layers of pipe at the joint). OR, desolder the existing stub from the tee and put a male elbow into the tee in its place? The only other option I could think of was to do the initial 90 OUTSIDE of the drywall such that the turn is flush to the outer wall, then have it run to the left along the wall but inside the cabinet? Again, there's that 2" clearance behind the cabinet drawers so that could work, I was just thinking it'd be wrong to have that run outside the wall like that? Am open to it if that's an acceptable technique though. Thanks again to all.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,796
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
Spinning the tee (then adding an elbow) is basically the end result that I want,
I don't see it. Spinning the tee 90 degrees clockwise (top view) points the output toward the PVC. That doesn't seem as if that would work. 45 degrees could work, but does that gain anything?

What is wrong with the two 90s as represented by your blue line?
While making the change, I might switch out the cold stop valve.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...omp-Angle-Supply-Stop-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated for compression or https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...ngle-Stop-Valve-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated-Brass to solder on.
 

broyo

New Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
I don't see it. Spinning the tee 90 degrees clockwise (top view) points the output toward the PVC. That doesn't seem as if that would work. 45 degrees could work, but does that gain anything?

What is wrong with the two 90s as represented by your blue line?
While making the change, I might switch out the cold stop valve.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...omp-Angle-Supply-Stop-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated for compression or https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-61...ngle-Stop-Valve-Lead-Free-Chrome-Plated-Brass to solder on.

Sorry, I think it's not apparent from the pictures. Basically the current copper vertical is very far forward in the wall cavity, way in front of the PVC. By spinning the tee, there's still a 1/2" clearance for the line to pass in front of the PVC (but still inside the wall). But, also because it's so far forward, if I instead attach a 90 such that it abuts the current tee, then I'd already be in front of the stud when I turn and travel left.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks