Moving water tanks up the hill for more pressure - Need advice on piping

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Blue Oak

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That one in the first url would be the correct thing to control the pump to control the pump that fills the tank . ("pump up")

The opposite kind as shown in the drawing, that empties a sump/tank, would be called a "pump down" type. That could also be the one that would be used in the cistern/tank to prevent a pressure pump from running when the cistern/tank is empty

You want one with "PU" in the model number, rather than "PD", to control the pump that fills the tank.

Hang on. The second link and image are found on the same page as the first link. I guess I'll just wire the thing up and test it upright then inverted.
 

Blue Oak

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The tag on the switch has P/N 1003253, and then a little Pump Up icon.

Under that it has 15PMPUWOP.
 

Reach4

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I guess I'll just wire the thing up and test it upright then inverted.
No need to wire it up to test initially. Use an ohmmeter, and see which way you get continuity.

A PU should have continuity as it dangles. Should become an open circuit (infinite ohms) when you elevate the ball with tether down.

When wired in, that should turn on the pump as the tether dangles, and shut off the pump as the ball on the tether floats up due to the tank being full.
 

Blue Oak

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No need to wire it up to test initially. Use an ohmmeter, and see which way you get continuity.

A PU should have continuity as it dangles. Should become an open circuit (infinite ohms) when you elevate the ball with tether down.

When wired in, that should turn on the pump as the tether dangles, and shut off the pump as the ball on the tether floats up due to the tank being full.

Confirmed continuity as it dangles, and open circuit in the floating position. I should be good to install it. Thanks!
 

Blue Oak

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All systems are functional. I finished the wiring and conduit for the float switch today. I'm very happy with the way the project turned out, especially since this is my first time doing something like this. Now to insulate the exposed piping and fill in the trenches with dirt.

Pics, because we all like pics...

80-completed_water_tanks_708945eb9388c1ca9253586c61d5c49bcd0f4119.jpg


New conduit for the float switch is shown coming from the upper right.

80-completed_manifold_and_junction_box_3f1169e2a9108eb01a4b1d762a6832cacbbb9551.jpg


I'll straighten out the junction box and tie it off better. If you look closely you can see the fittings for 1 1/2 NH fire hoses off both the manifold and the old well tank.

80-completed_manifold_and_conduit_c542a20735ab0bcd0c759632e13b0b7cc2f65e3b.jpg


The old float switch had seen better days, yet still worked fine. This is with the cover removed.

80-old_float_switch_2d2f30032431288bca39f5b8cdc8d95e465a9cfa.jpg
 

Blue Oak

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Checking in, four months later. I had the proverbial "cold rush of shit to the heart" when I was out front smugly watching my sprinklers water my landscaping- just to see the water pressure fall and die in front of my very eyes. My brother was trying to be helpful when he said, "maybe it's the pump." I had to remind him that I had removed the pumps and now rely on gravity to feed the sprinklers.

Two things converged to cause me to DRAIN MY TANKS! First, my sprinklers were repaired/replaced and new valves were installed which allowed me to water a LOT more than I had been. And second, my well is now producing about 10% of what it was in the early spring. Yeah, like 10% of what I was getting. I guess having the least rainfall in 128 years over the past year has put a dent in my water table.

Of course I had bought a nice water level gauge, just hadn't gotten around to installing it. The gauge I bought is here-> https://www.rainharvest.com/liquidator-2-water-tank-level-gauge.asp?bc=no

Once I cut back on the watering, the tanks began to fill and it actually took about 4 weeks to refill the tanks while I used my daily amounts to water, shower, launder, etc. I'm quite happy with the level gauge. It's visible from my recliner by the window in my family room, and it's VERY visible with a flashlight at night due to the reflective tape on the collar that slides up and down the 2" PVC pipe.
 

Ballvalve

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I have 2 properties where I put the tanks about 50 PSI up the mountain. I fill them with a timer and let any overflow into a small pond. Really simple with no boosters or pressure tanks. I had a third, but the 3000gallon tank burned down right next to a house I built in 1985 in a huge wildfire. The damn house survived ! Fire is so fickle, totally unpredictable. Anyway, beware plastic tanks and culverts love to burn. I had 3] 40' culverts [ABS] that burned like cigars unseen for a month until a truck ended up in the trench.
 

Ballvalve

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Those fire hose hookups are pretty ridiculous in California. I have been in a lot of fires and never does Cal-Fire even consider them as a rule. Mainly because they never get to the house, or if they do they have a truck with water. I love brass pipe as I see you do too, but to mix it with galvanized doesn't serve any purpose other than to make sure they never come apart later. Give me a schedule 80 PVC nipple and it will see you 100 years from now, ready to be reused.




All systems are functional. I finished the wiring and conduit for the float switch today. I'm very happy with the way the project turned out, especially since this is my first time doing something like this. Now to insulate the exposed piping and fill in the trenches with dirt.

Pics, because we all like pics...

80-completed_water_tanks_708945eb9388c1ca9253586c61d5c49bcd0f4119.jpg


New conduit for the float switch is shown coming from the upper right.

80-completed_manifold_and_junction_box_3f1169e2a9108eb01a4b1d762a6832cacbbb9551.jpg


I'll straighten out the junction box and tie it off better. If you look closely you can see the fittings for 1 1/2 NH fire hoses off both the manifold and the old well tank.

80-completed_manifold_and_conduit_c542a20735ab0bcd0c759632e13b0b7cc2f65e3b.jpg


The old float switch had seen better days, yet still worked fine. This is with the cover removed.

80-old_float_switch_2d2f30032431288bca39f5b8cdc8d95e465a9cfa.jpg
 

Blue Oak

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Since I'm an operational firefighter and station an engine in my driveway, I can hook up to my tanks and run a hose right back up to them. I think they'll work just fine for my purposes.
 

Ballvalve

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Since I'm an operational firefighter and station an engine in my driveway, I can hook up to my tanks and run a hose right back up to them. I think they'll work just fine for my purposes.

My neighbor who is a volunteer fireman went off to fight the local wild fire several years ago. Once you leave the evac zone you cant get back in here. I stayed and saved a few of my houses. My neighbor - the fireman's house - burned because no one was there to work the sparks and embers flying about. The sheriff kept him and everyone else a few miles away. I built that house and wanted to save it but it was high up a hill and no water or genset, besides being rather busy saving myself...
 

Blue Oak

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Around here, operational firefighters are allowed to go in and you know, fight the fires. I'm not worried one bit about not getting past the CHP or Sheriff checkpoint. In all actuality, my water supply is MUCH more likely to be used to fill our tender and fight a fire up the road from me. My house is about a 8 minutes drive from the nearest Cal Fire station, and there's a city fire station about 100 yards further. The outlier concern is a huge firestorm that takes everyone by surprise and in that case having my engine on site with my 11k gallons and my next door neighbors 15k gallons up on the hill would be invaluable.
 

Ballvalve

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The CHP gets a real Gestapo attitude when they block a road. I had to have friends bring gas cans for generators to a checkpoint and make and exchange from fire zone to non fire zone like some damn Berlin wall situation in 1963. They dont care who or what you are, its a real war mentality. As for the houses and my shop. I built the house with all cement and stucco, tempered glass, no eaves and few vents. Decks all cement. 1" rainbird plumbed into the roof and 2 diesel gen sets. Fox news did a segment on the house back in 2007. It only takes a small effort to save a house that is built right and stayed with. I do have a few tunneled wine cellars and a pond so if all failed, I had no reason to die. Many die when they "Stay": and then leave when the fire gets close. Have to commit to a plan.
 

Blue Oak

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Some further improvements including burying the pipe underground the rest of the way including under the retaining wall, and adding a poor man's fire hydrant in the form of a 2" ball valve. Watering the yard with a golf course hose is pretty awesome. Also putting in a paver patio and steps along with a small lawn. Archer assures me he's going to promptly destroy the lawn.

80-backyard_project_7_81e4af9abc01300f6a526492ed3328a1ef6d452a.jpg


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80-backyard_project_2_e41e755674f72bece1b948c6d8cbe7a528ce530e.jpg


80-backyard_project_8_6fd21a25a98f0f0ebd8842ed321d73093dff20ea.jpg
 

Blue Oaks

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Guys n Gals- All is well on the water tank endeavor. My only issue now is my well doesn't produce what my landscape would like, and who knows how much worse that will get in the future.

There's been a new development in the neighborhood. The adjacent, vacant property is going up for auction since the landowner has decided he's not going to pay the property taxes. I'm planning on bidding in January.

Here's my bright idea lol. I'd like to buy the property and drill a well on it. I'd put the water tanks about 20 or 30 vertical feet higher than my existing tanks and have a pipe go from the new tanks on the new property over to my existing tanks.

I know I could use a simple ball valve to control the flow and occasionally just top off the main tanks for my house. But, is there a way to float switch that activity so the lower tanks are maintained near their capacity, without overflowing them? My fragile little mind is having trouble conceiving of a way...
 

Reach4

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Are the lower tanks pressurized or atmospheric? If atmospheric, a stock water valve would be the cheap way. Float switches controlling solenoids works for something more complex.
 

Blue Oaks

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The lower tanks are atmospheric. I'm now pressure tank free!

So, essentially it's a valve like in a toilet? Once the water rises to a certain level, it cuts off? I know I can control the proposed tank(s) level with a float switch like the one I currently have.
 

Blue Oaks

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I really hope I'm able to buy the 4 acres next to my property. I ran out of water on Sunday morning, after trying to keep the landscaping alive during our brutal heat wave last week. Tuesday it was 115* and 10% humidity, and for several days after it was still close to 110 and 11% humidity. I knew I had less than 10% of my tanks full of water, but I've invested far too much time and effort keeping the landscaping alive to let it die now.

I had a shower this morning, and today's high will be about 80. Both are an improvement from Sunday.

Anyone ever buy a property at a county auction? Any tips?
 
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