Wall mounted sink framing

[DIYorBust]

Thanks Wayne, I think that may be the way to go. I hadn't thought about the framing angle, but that seems perfect, any they're not too expensive. Do you thin 100 lbs is a reasonable test case? If an adult puts all their weight on the sink, that could be more like 200lbs.

Do you think I could increase the widthdrawal capacity by padding out the 2x blocking by sistering another 2x to it(but not to the studs because the pipes would block it) and screw them together with say 6 self drilling 2.5" spax lag screws or similar? That way I'm thinking the screws or bolts holding the lav could have double the contact with the blocking.

Any thoughts on using something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zurn-8-in-Split-Ring-Pipe-Support-Assembly-P6000-YJ8/204385665 to connect the drain to the drywall to provide a little rotational resistance? It for sure won't hold up the lav but might reduce the tension load on the bolts. On the other hand, it may cause the sink to crack and break apart under pressure since the drain drill out is not designed for that purpose.

I think I'm getting a sense of what might work here.

 

[wwhitney]

I think 200 lbs is a better test case, which is why I suggested 100 lbs shear / 300 lbs tension capacity for each of the two anchors.

Yes, I believe that if you have adequate capacity for the rear block connection to the studs (e.g. a tall block and maybe (2) GA2s on each stud), then you could increase the sink lag screw withdrawal capacity (assuming more than 1.5" of thread length on the screw) by doubling the block and using appropriate lag screws to connect the blocks together. Use 3" lags for connecting the blocks together.

Using the drain pipe for structural capacity seems fraught to me.

Cheers, Wayne