Wall mounted sink framing

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DIYorBust

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I'd like to safely install a wall mounted sink on a wall area approximately 24 inches wide that is flanked on all sides by by 1.5 inch cast iron plumbing vents so that blocking cannot reach the 2x4 studs unless it is drilled approximately 1.9 inches. Would it be acceptable to so drill the blocking and mount the sink to it?

Alternatively I'm considering a single ply 2x10 header. The header would be 1.5 inches thick, and the pipe 1.9 inches so it should just fit in a 2x4 wall. I could then furr out the header with some 2x4 and bolt the sink to that, or create two such headers and run cripples along them. The sink is only 8.5 inches deep(ie it will stick out 8.5 inches perpendicular to the wall).

Clearly if I could put the sink somewhere else or move the plumbing I would do this, but there really isn't a good way to do that here.

Thanks!
 

James Henry

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If the vent pipes are at least 3/4" back from the face of the studs, kerf saw the two supporting studs 3/4" deep and screw a 3/4" piece of plywood to the studs for backing. You can use screws and toggle bolts to hang the mounting bracket, whatever fits your fancy. of course I could be completely wrong because theirs no picture or drawing.

P.S. I hate when people want you to read their description because they don't have time to take a picture or sketch a drawing, don't let it happen again.
 

DIYorBust

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Thanks and that's fair. I tried to take a picture but it was very confusing as the area is only partly exposed, and not easy to photograph, but I know what's in there.

Forget the details. My question is, would plywood be able to support the sink? I considered this solution, but worry that the if someone leans on the sink, the plywood could break and release the bolts or flex and crack the tile. Is this a common practice?
 

wwhitney

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Ideally the manufacturer's instructions include requirements for mounting and appropriate backing. What is the sink make and model?

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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Its wood nails and screws maybe a metal plate or angle iron. its doable or it isn't?
 

James Henry

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Screw a 12" wide piece of 3/4" plywood into the kerf sawn studs with the grain running horizontally. Mark where the bolts go on the plywood. Drill the holes out and run bolts through the back of the plywood with fender washers then install nuts and washers to keep them in place, hang drywall, then tile then sink. The combination of all three layers will keep the sink from sagging unless someone intentionally wants to destroy it.
 

DIYorBust

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Screw a 12" wide piece of 3/4" plywood into the kerf sawn studs with the grain running horizontally. Mark where the bolts go on the plywood. Drill the holes out and run bolts through the back of the plywood with fender washers then install nuts and washers to keep them in place, hang drywall, then tile then sink. The combination of all three layers will keep the sink from sagging unless someone intentionally wants to destroy it.
Do you think the wall would be rigid enough for tile?
 

Jeff H Young

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ive put 3/8 steel plate across not that big a deal drill and tap or through bolted . I mean everything we do is just a little of a PIA. but this isnt a mountain even for DIY everything costs more hate to buy that one time tool I know I do. let us see progress take some pics
 

wwhitney

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The hangers that come with the unit, do they have 1/2" lag threads? The studs are 24" o.c.? The pipe obstructions are on all 4 sides of the stud bay, so an added stud would intersect with horizontal pipes?

Cheers, Wayne
 

DIYorBust

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Wayne, you have the scenario correct, the studes were moved to accomodate the pipes, normally they are 16 inch oc, and doubled in this area, thew all is about 10 feet tall with two floors above, so we doubled thee studs. Steel plate might work, not thrilled about kerf cutting the studs.
 

Jeff H Young

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kerf cut like notching 3/8 inch out of studs ? are you just putting tile over backer board flush or will it be floated ? if floated just put steel plate over the face of studs.
 

Jeff H Young

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btw drill holes and countersink for flush screw heads in a plate.
I'm not sure this is easiest or best option but its not crazy hard either
 

wwhitney

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FWIW, looks like the sink projects about 9" (a bit less) and the upper bolt is about 3" (a bit more) above the bottom of the sink. So if you put a 100 lb downward force on the front of the sink, your wall anchors jointly need to resist 100 lbs in shear and 300 lbs in tension. Maybe shoot for that capacity for each anchor, so jointly they have double that.

A 1/2" lag screw with 1.5" embedment in SPF framing will have a withdrawal capacity of 350 lbs, per https://awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/connectioncalc The provided lag screw for that metal plate I see in the installation instructions is probably 2.5" or so, to allow for 1" of wall covering?

So for a different approach, an upright horizontal 2x block between the studs with full penetration by a 1/2" lag seems like a plausible solution. You'd also need to attach the block at each end to the stud with a connection of comparable capacity. A Simpson framing angle like GA2, with the block at the back edge of the stud and the pipes in front, would be of comparable capacity. This assumes that the pipes aren't tight to the studs, blocking access to install the framing angles. And then you'd pad out the face of the block to align with the face of the studs.

Cheers, Wayne
 

James Henry

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Alternatively, you could get a monkey with a football and have him or her stand in between the 2x4 studs while holding the mounting studs in his or her hands for mounting the sink but you would have to make sure he or she is strong enough to hold the sink up indefinitely and you would also have to install a hatch in the wall for feeding, but I'm not sure this is doable.
 
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