Thanks brother, I am searching amazon for a tounge groove wrench... Is there another name for it?
Do you mean channellocks?
Home drain lines are clogging at the cleanout. Water under laminate.
- Thread starter CaliSkier
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Do you mean channellocks?
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
I would get a drain cleaning person to rod that to the street.
You did not respond to the question about trees.
Sorry, there are no trees anywhere near this line and I believe they empty into the main sewer about 25 feet away. The closest tree is 75 feet away on the other side of a driveway, a fence and in another yard.
Chefwong
Member
Yes -channellocks- or anything that 's big enough should be fine....
I'm still not wrapping my head on plunging the cleanout , but I suppose suction is suction.
Plunging creates a vacum....which sort goes back to the off track initial diagnosis anyhow. Have you checked the main trap. Just to see if you have a door on it and it's sticking...which is easy, doesn't require much tools , not a cable/jetter which you may not have.
I'm still not wrapping my head on plunging the cleanout , but I suppose suction is suction.
Plunging creates a vacum....which sort goes back to the off track initial diagnosis anyhow. Have you checked the main trap. Just to see if you have a door on it and it's sticking...which is easy, doesn't require much tools , not a cable/jetter which you may not have.
Thanks for the continued help...Where is the main trap? I am not sure how I am going to get channel locks on there without breaking off those tabs.
Once I get if fixed I will be sure to back fill with gravel and put a box over the top of it so that no more dirt gets on it, this is ridiculous.
Chefwong
Member
I'm sure there may be a specific keyed tool for that - but C locks are for the outside of the cap...
Main House Trap
Here's a direct link off
https://www.google.com/search?q=mai...WjgP0HHcFEBcUQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1280&bih=641
Main House Trap
Here's a direct link off
https://www.google.com/search?q=mai...WjgP0HHcFEBcUQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1280&bih=641
Ok, I will have to dig a huge hole next to it to get my channel locks on the rim. I will have to do that. Then I will clean all the dirt off of it and back fill with gravel and an axis box. Temps get down to 1 degree sometimes in the winters here, I assume because there is little water pressure for a drain this should not be a problem.
I suggest that you show a picture of yours.
Measure too. Do you have a digital caliper? If not, it's time you had one, but a tape measure would get you pretty close..
However, I am thinking a 1/2 inch thick board cut to size might be a good improvised tool.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Like I said before check down the clean out down stream of the B/W valve if there is water in it your problem is farther down. You can't open the b/w valve anyway , why not eliminate and try something you can do ? b/w valve should not be buried it needs access and a method to service
Good thought on the board! I am not there so I can't measure it but I can bring a board and cut it on site.
Agree, and thank you, I am going to clean out the line with a pressure washertool and I plan to build a gravel pit and valve cover box for the valve once I get the lid off.
Check ClogHog. https://www.cloghog.com/
They have different ones for different pressure washers. More gpm is more cleaning. More thrust.
Chefwong
Member
Cali -
If this was me, I would work on getting that cap removed. Per you -I could barely see water flow down both sides of the cleanouts and it did not flow very quickly-.....prior to any jetting/snaking, etc - it would be helpful to pull the cap so you can at least determine root cause (if the valve below) is root cause.
And btw, on the jetter or snake. you can only do it downsteam of the door ( if it's a bw valve)
If this was me, I would work on getting that cap removed. Per you -I could barely see water flow down both sides of the cleanouts and it did not flow very quickly-.....prior to any jetting/snaking, etc - it would be helpful to pull the cap so you can at least determine root cause (if the valve below) is root cause.
And btw, on the jetter or snake. you can only do it downsteam of the door ( if it's a bw valve)
If the curve on the cleanout is too much to see with a flashlight, maybe you could stick a 4-ft length of pex or hose into the cleanout and blow. If you can develop pressure or can detect bubbles, then there is standing water.
Yes, thanks brother, I plan to do just that as it is the easiest thing to see if there is an issue, just not easy to get off.
great suggestion, I had already bought this one, but yours can do 1.5" pipes, I wont need that this time, but maybe in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...n_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
Tuttles Revenge
In the Trades
- Messages
- 4,198
- Reaction score
- 1,451
- Points
- 113
Each brand of backwater valve has a different method for top removal.
Some use a 2x4 stuck into the top. Some have flimsy tabs on top like you've shown which say to hand tighten only.
Since yours is located in the sewer and covers the entire house flow, it really should be Normally Open. Which there is only 1 good version of that.
The Mainline #4963 with a vault built around it so that is accessible without digging as all backwater valves require inspection and maintenance / cleaning periodically. There is an aftermarket device for this BWV that has an alarm so that you are alerted to backflow situations and can stop using water on your side and avoid flooding your own home.
It should be a normally Open device so that air flow back and forth is maintained throughout the entire plumbing / sewer system.
Some use a 2x4 stuck into the top. Some have flimsy tabs on top like you've shown which say to hand tighten only.
Since yours is located in the sewer and covers the entire house flow, it really should be Normally Open. Which there is only 1 good version of that.
The Mainline #4963 with a vault built around it so that is accessible without digging as all backwater valves require inspection and maintenance / cleaning periodically. There is an aftermarket device for this BWV that has an alarm so that you are alerted to backflow situations and can stop using water on your side and avoid flooding your own home.
It should be a normally Open device so that air flow back and forth is maintained throughout the entire plumbing / sewer system.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
we really have no idea that the B/W valve has anything to do with this problem. it could easily just be a clogged line .
just do something anything it wont likely get fixed without trying something
just do something anything it wont likely get fixed without trying something
