Shower Pipe Connection

[Thomas K]

I am installing a shower bar exactly like the one shown in the photo. Other photos show how plumber installed shower piping behind shower wall. Piping was finished by plumber when we were out of town for the weekend, and I'm wondering if that shower pipe outlet should be placed more like it is in the photo, or if it will work if I install the flexible shower head line to where the outlet pipe is in wall now. It is not too late for me to tile over that spot.

If it would look better moved to a position like in photo of shower bar, I can drill a new hole, tile and grout over old one, and move PEX line and shower outlet to new location.

Opinions?

Thanks!

 

[Helper Dave]

I would want that shower bar more or less centered on the drain. How's that all line up at the moment?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I would want that shower bar more or less centered on the drain.

I would think more centered on the space than the drain. The drain may or may not be centered in the space.

 

[Thomas K]

I can't remember position right off hand, but will check tonight. What I meant is I'm wondering if it will look okay if the chrome fitting shown to left of shower bar in sample photo will look okay mounted to where a normal shower head would go.
This would put shower bar and flexible line fitting close together. As it is, shower head pipe is about 1 foot from an 8 foot ceiling.

 

[Thomas K]

I would want that shower bar more or less centered on the drain. How's that all line up at the moment?

I hope I haven't confused anyone. Tile wall is wider than tub; I just wanted tile to go all the way over to pocket door there. As of right now tub drain, shower valve, and shower head spaces are all lined up perfectly, and centered in the tub. Second photo shows how bar would look with top of bar in the space meant for shower head. From what I've read bottom of bar should be right at 52" from tub floor. In this setup, it's 58". Of course, I am 6' 2" and my wife is almost as tall as me. I would have to add blocking behind that spot, glue in a piece of tile to cover hole and then grout over it, but it could work. I would then just drill a new 3/4" hole for chrome water fitting to left of shower bar as in earlier photo with a circular tile hole bit, and move Pex line and 90 degree pipe fitting to new location. I'm figuring on a 2" brass pipe (too long?) to join Pex drop leg to chrome adapter fitting for flex hose.
I'm thinking (and I'm likely wrong) that showerhead on end of flexible hose should be lined up with the shower valve and drain. If so, the bar would have to be mounted slightly to the left of centerline. Please correct me if I am wrong.

By the way, won't I need stainless steel screws for the bar install? And add caulking to screws when installing?

Thanks!

 

[Thomas K]

Also, can you tell me what to drill holes through porcelain tile with for mounting the bar? I'm planning to attach it with stainless steel wood screws screwed through tile wall and into wooden backing. I know you're supposed to use a hollow core diamond bit, but I can't seem to find one at Lowes or Home Depot less than 1/4" and I think that's way too big for these screws.

Then again, maybe not. Looks like 1/4" is smallest they make, and that's a Kobalt bit from Lowes. $15 for bit, but well worth it if it works.

 

[Jeff H Young]

all the bars I've installed were in conjunction with a separate standard shower head In this case I am guessing there is only the handheld.
I would install bar offset from centerline so handheld is dead center . choose spot for the water connection that suits you to stub through wall

 

[Thomas K]

all the bars Ive installed were in conjunction with a seperate standard shower head In this case I am guessing there is only the handheld.
I would install bar offset from centerline so handheld is dead center . choose spot for the water connection that suits you to stub through wall

Perfect! Thanks, Jeff!

 

[Reach4]

Also, can you tell me what to drill holes through porcelain tile with for mounting the bar? I'm planning to attach it with stainless steel wood screws screwed through tile wall and into wooden backing. I know you're supposed to use a hollow core diamond bit, but I can't seem to find one at Lowes or Home Depot less than 1/4" and I think that's way too big for these screws.

Then again, maybe not. Looks like 1/4" is smallest they make, and that's a Kobalt bit from Lowes. $15 for bit, but well worth it if it works.

You want a clearance hole. You will not drill into the wood with that. For centering the screw hole, you may consider using a self-centering drill bit for a pilot hole to get the screw started.

Drilling a vertical porcelain tile surface is harder, because you need to keep the drilling surface continuously wet.