Anode Rod Replacement

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Sarg

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And just another tip when installing a replacement.
Obtain a drain valve ( full 3/4 " ball valve ) that is specifically made to flush sediment and install during the installation.
The factory drains are a compression shut off that will not pass sediment.
( Valve is about $27 )
 

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Cityslacker06

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And just another tip when installing a replacement.
Obtain a drain valve ( full 3/4 " ball valve ) that is specifically made to flush sediment and install during the installation.
The factory drains are a compression shut off that will not pass sediment.
( Valve is about $27)
Great information, sir. I will keep this in my memory banks as well.
 

Myhouse

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I can not heat it up because I do not want to burn the insulation around the tank. I am just considering leaving alone, but before I give in on this, is there any thing I can try to break it loose so I can at least replace it?
Try a piece of pipe.

Seriously, use whatever socket you have, then put a 3 or 4 foot long piece of iron pipe on the breaker bar. That will give you all kinds of leverage. But - beware of the possibility of flying (face-first) in to the wall when the anode breaks free (or the breaker bar breaks!).
 

Cityslacker06

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Try a piece of pipe.

Seriously, use whatever socket you have, then put a 3 or 4 foot long piece of iron pipe on the breaker bar. That will give you all kinds of leverage. But - beware of the possibility of flying (face-first) in to the wall when the anode breaks free (or the breaker bar breaks!).
Since I am an amputee, I will not try this by hand because I know I will lose my balance and knock myself out. I tried once already, and it did not work out very well. I will get a regular air compressor (not the pancake style) and try using a pneumatic impact again. The pancake style will not work since it can not keep up with the wrench. I have tried this already as well. Another issue is do not have anyone else to help me.
 

SShaw

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Try a piece of pipe.

Seriously, use whatever socket you have, then put a 3 or 4 foot long piece of iron pipe on the breaker bar. That will give you all kinds of leverage. But - beware of the possibility of flying (face-first) in to the wall when the anode breaks free (or the breaker bar breaks!).

That would not have worked for me for two reasons. 1) There's no room in the utility closet for that long of a breaker bar. 2) Using a bar you need to have a second person hold the tank and apply equal torque in the opposite direction, which isn't practical.

An air impact wrench solves both of these issues. Because it hammers the fastener at >20 times per second, rather than applying constant torque, you don't need a second person to secure the tank.
 
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