Grundfos CU301 & No Contact to Pump Situation

[Robert Smith]

Came home to no water and no water pumping from the well with a CU301 controller (don't know what the pump is). Tried power cycling at the controller as well as the breaker but still no go. Opened up the box and I have 3 green voltage indicators (24, 10 & 5V) a flashing green CONTROL INDICATOR and then a red NO CONTACT TO PUMP indicator. Seems fairly obvious where the issue is coming from but is there anything in the world I can try before dumping a bunch of money down this hole (almost literally)????

EDIT: I will add that the controller was replaced last July after a power failure and has been working fine since then.

 

[Reach4]

Came home to no water and no water pumping from the well with a CU301 controller (don't know what the pump is). Tried power cycling at the controller as well as the breaker but still no go. Opened up the box and I have 3 green voltage indicators (24, 10 & 5V) a flashing green CONTROL INDICATOR and then a red NO CONTACT TO PUMP indicator. Seems fairly obvious where the issue is coming from but is there anything in the world I can try before dumping a bunch of money down this hole (almost literally)????

Alternative is to put a regular pressure switch on there and not use the CU3o1.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Robert Smith]

Alternative is to put a regular pressure switch on there and not use the CU3o1.

Is this the Cycle Stop Valve replacement that I've been seeing around? If my issue is the pump in the ground, that won't fix this issue will it? If it is indeed another controller, I'm interested.

Is there a way to jumper the pump to bypass the controller so I can really tell if the controller is causing the issue or not?

 

[Reach4]

Is this the Cycle Stop Valve replacement that I've been seeing around? If my issue is the pump in the ground, that won't fix this issue will it? If it is indeed another controller, I'm interested.

This can be done with a CSV or not. With the CSV, a smaller tank is used. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick-vfd-controller-replacement

Without a CSV, you would probably want something like a 44 gallon pressure tank.

Is there a way to jumper the pump to bypass the controller so I can really tell if the controller is causing the issue or not?

Yes. If you send the right voltage to the pump wires directly, the pump will run.

If you have a 2-pole breaker, I would guess the right voltage is 240. However read up on it to make sure.

 

[Robert Smith]

This can be done with a CSV or not. With the CSV, a smaller tank is used. https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/pk1a-pside-kick-vfd-controller-replacement

Without a CSV, you would probably want something like a 44 gallon pressure tank.


Yes. If you send the right voltage to the pump wires directly, the pump will run.

If you have a 2-pole breaker, I would guess the right voltage is 240. However read up on it to make sure.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it's a two-pole, 240V. Am trying to decipher the wiring coming from the pump...

 

[Reach4]

Three wires, and one is green or bare? EDIT: I saw your other post, so yes.

I suggest you enter CU301 into the search box, above.

 

[Reach4]

EDIT: I will add that the controller was replaced last July after a power failure and has been working fine since then.

If you paid for that CU301, then it would still be under the 2-year warranty, right?

 

[Robert Smith]

If you paid for that CU301, then it would still be under the 2-year warranty, right?

Yes, it was still under the 1-year warranty (?) and it was replaced again. Although they tried to peg it on a lightning strike as the motor on the pump apparently burned out too. Seeing as how the day it all died was bluebird clear, I'm thinking the pump shorted upstream or they didn't know what they were doing and just replaced the controller to get the job done.

 

[Valveman]

A "No Connection" fault from a CU301 and SQE is very normal unfortunately. The newest version, which I think is still Generation 7 will let the pump cycle on and off like it has a 15 PSI pressure switch bandwidth for I think 2000 times before it even shows a loss of connection. Using the same wires that take 240V down to the motor to send a radio signal from the motor to the controller is the problem.

Yes we have replaced thousands of CU301 controllers with a Cycle Stop Valve and a simple pressure switch. You can disconnect the CU301 and just wire the two hot wires directly to a 240V breaker to test the pump. If the pump still works all you need is a PK1A control kit to replace the CU301 with something that is dependable and long lasting.

We even have an instruction sheet on how to change out the CU301 to a Cycle Stop Valve control.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/vfd-repair-kit