Raleigh, NC Plumbing Feedback/Inspection

[bitshifter]

I'm remodeling the master bathroom in my house. Good plumber's are hard to find. I used to help my dad remodel rentals and did work with habitat for humanity. I decided to give it a shot. Attached is an image of my current approach, nothing has been glued yet. I would appreciate any feedback from the experts here. Thanks for your time

 

[Terry]

You have 2" to the right. I use a 2 x 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 double fixture fitting.
Revent at 42" off the floor, six inches above flood level.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[bitshifter]

You have 2" to the right. I use a 2 x 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 double fixture fitting.
Revent at 42" off the floor, six inches above flood level.

Where would I place cleanout? Above double fixture? Previous, was single vanity, had a cleanout, see attachemt. Also I take it it's better to keep the 2in as long as possible for ease of flow? Thanks for feedback!

 

[Terry]

Some would put the cleanout above the double fixture fitting.

 

[Reach4]

If getting the vent to 6 inches above the flood level of the sink before it goes horizontal is a problem, 45 degrees is considered vertical for that purpose.

 

[bitshifter]

Got it, thanks for pic! I'll try 45 there. And 2in split to double 1.5 in the middle. I take it I can leave the 2in traveling up on the right? I might have to keep cleanout if ok by code. The new vanity has drawers in the middle, along with double sinks, another reason I'm splitting in middle and not moving cleanout there.

 

[Reach4]

I think that vent pipe at 45 could be done in 1.25 inch pipe under IPC.

2 inch for the vertical vent with the cleanout makes perfect sense for effective cleaning.

 

[Terry]

I think that vent pipe at 45 could be done in 1.25 inch pipe under IPC.

Where do you find 1.25 DWV pipe and fittings in plastic? I find all kinds of 1.5" pipe and fittings. I wasn't plumbing in the 60's when they were using 1.25" copper and galvanized for DWV.

 

[Jadnashua]

Just a comment...dry fitting PVC pipe will not get things aligned as you expect once you prime and add the cement...you'll end up pushing the pipe further into the fitting. If you didn't take that into account, your pipe lengths will be off, or you'll shift everything as the whole shebang compresses. The pipe fittings for PVC (and ABS) are tapered, and the cement melts the plastic, which is why the pipe will slide in further. In dry fitting, the pipe will wedge in the fitting before it reaches the bottom where it needs to go.

 

[bitshifter]

Awesome! One thing to note, I can't find a double sanitary tee, 2in to 1.5(3 connector) I can find it in abs, but ABS isn't sold in stores here:

NIBCO 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV All Hub Double Sanitary Tee
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-All-Hub-Double-Sanitary-Tee-C4835HD112/100678015
SKU# 100678015

I guess I could do the 2x2x1.5x1.5 and cap it with 2-1.5 adapter, or just run 2 all the way through:

NIBCO 2 in. x 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV All Hub Double Sanitary Tee
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-2...Double-Sanitary-Tee-C4835HD22112112/205799568
SKU# 205799568

 

[Terry]

I'm not allowed to use a double santee for those.

I do use these.

 

[Terry]

"A person who uses a sanitary cross for that connection, is usually not experienced enough to KNOW that you also put a cleanout tee below it. I had a motel where EVERY two sink connection was a cross and there were NO cleanout tees. I had to make openings in the wall, and drill a hole in the vent above the fitting to snake it. Then I put a "repair clamp" over the hole to prevent leakage."

hj, Master plumber.
Harry Jacobson

Harry and I use double fixture fittings. Not a sanitary cross. If you can find a 2" double fixture fitting, you can bush down the three sides.
Terry Love

 

[bitshifter]

I found one online:

Spears P500 Series PVC DWV Pipe Fitting, Double Fixture Wye, 2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" Hub
https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Pipe-Fitting-Double-Fixture/dp/B009H41BOO?th=1

I cannot find this part anywhere else, even the 2 inch are hard to find. Why do the home depots adn lowes only care the double sanitary tees and not the double fixture? It makes sense to use it over double sanitary tee.

 

[bitshifter]

So revisions, i'm going to try to make this short and clean. The new attachment shows everything I'm changing.

• The green line shows I'm going to extend further up to get above flood plane, about 42"
• I guess i'll keep the cleanout, not sure i need to move above double fixture as you can snake now.
• for the black circled elbows, is it better for them to be long or short, going out to sink?
• The yellow i'm switching out for the part above, PVC DWV Pipe Fitting, Double Fixture Wye
• the circled Tee, should I change that to a 2" wye or keep 2" sanitary tee? I read wye is better but might not allow for proper drainage.
• black line is going to be changed to 2" along with elbow.

 

[Reach4]

Where do you find 1.25 DWV pipe and fittings in plastic? I find all kinds of 1.5" pipe and fittings. I wasn't plumbing in the 60's when they were using 1.25" copper and galvanized for DWV.

Pipe is local, but fittings would probably take ordering.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlot...-PVC-DWV-Sch-40-Pipe-PVC-07100-0200/202018045 (2 ft long)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-EAGLE-1-1-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sch-40-DWV-Plain-End-Pipe-1586/100147742 (10 ft in stock locally)

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-417-012-1-1-4-PVC-Sch-40-45-Elbow
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-429-212-1-1-2-x-1-1-4-PVC-Schedule-40-Reducer-Coupling
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-437-212-1-1-2-x-1-1-4-PVC-Schedule-40-Spigot-x-Socket-Bushing
Bunch of 1-1/4 pvc stuff:
https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-40-pvc/elbows.html?size_in_inches=35

 

[Jeff H Young]

Personally I would forget the 45. Straight up and 90 in to vent. I don't run through studs on 45 without a very good reason. Clean out on top is fine . and as for the 90s on side a long sweep is better though your code may approve (we have UPC and long sweep required)

 

[bitshifter]

I appreciate all the help here! I'm glad to say I'm moving on to the next part of this project, the new Bathtub!! I'm curious how to get started with this. I would like to move the drain to the other side of the bathroom and install a new standalone faucet for the standalone tub. See attached pic. My questions are:

• can I cut into the abs pipe, by the new drain location, and add a wye or tee to create the new drain?
• what do I do with the old pipe on the other side, if moved? Do i just cap it or should I remove it, cut it out?
• can i drill through the joist to move water lines for faucet and can the lines be close together for this faucet: https://www.wayfair.com/home-improv...ding-tub-filler-with-handshower-bcy10614.html

Again, thanks for all the great input, this site is a life saver!!

 

[bitshifter]

Is there a solid reason why I have to use mechanical couplers instead of Transition cement? We apparently are not allowed to use cement by code, but seems like it would be more reliable Any input on my previous post greatly appreciated.

 

[Mr tee]

Transition cement is not more reliable than nohub couplings, but they need to be the shielded type for your application.

 

[Reach4]

Is there a solid reason why I have to use mechanical couplers instead of Transition cement? We apparently are not allowed to use cement by code, but seems like it would be more reliable Any input on my previous post greatly appreciated.

Considering transition cement implies that the existing pipes are ABS.

Even if the existing pipes were PVC, you would probably still want to use the shielded couplings. Glued PVC repair couplings I think are tricky. The shielded couplings are nice for inserting pipe between existing pipes.

If you are asking if there is a technical reason that IPC does not embrace this green transition cement for free mixing of ABS and PVC? I tend to think no, but that does not matter. https://www.startribune.com/can-i-join-abs-to-pvc/455805773/