Humidifier fell and crashed to pieces

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beeth

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I heard a big cash sound yesterday when I was working in the house but I couldn't find why, until this afternoon when I went downstairs to the basement, I felt hot then I was shocked when I saw the humidifier fell on the ground with pieces and dust everywhere in the utility room, leaving a big hole above the furnace


humidifier1_e37d60786de540529598bd3b9b7a565b82a5cb40.jpg

Big hole above the furnace


humidifier2_a9f571a20f523d88121d6aea108ca447c097cc54.jpg

pieces on the ground


I asked myself many times, why, why, why???
I don't have any pets in the house, and if a small animal like squirrel(never seen one in the house) should not have that kind of power to break the hardware mounted with screws…

I have never turned on or used the humidifier for two years since I moved in this house, because I was told it could cause mold in the vents. And I am fine not to use it in the future.
But could you please advise 1) if I should buy a new humidifier to reinstall it(benefits? a must to sell the house in the future?), or 2) if I should just simply buy a metal board to block the hole, tape it around to prevent air leaking?
If 2), any risk if I leave all the cables, water pipes, as is(hanging around)? where should I buy the metal board and what kind of tape I should use to seal? any temporary solution to block the hole before I can buy the right board for long term?

I really appreciate any comments or suggestions, so I can fix this problem safely and start getting heat to the house.

The humidifier is Aprilaire model 760.

Thank you!



humidifier3_8c7237f644a13690ed1c4e3a98fe29aea447fa87.jpg
 

Dana

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I have never turned on or used the humidifier for two years since I moved in this house, because I was told it could cause mold in the vents. And I am fine not to use it in the future.
But could you please advise 1) if I should buy a new humidifier to reinstall it(benefits? a must to sell the house in the future?)

No, do NOT install a new humidifier! Humidifiers are only necessary for human comfort & health in extremely air-leaky or intentionally overventilated houses. Nine times out of ten humidifiers get used incorrectly, and OVER humidify the air in winter, which leads to higher risk f mold inside the wall cavities, and even when not at rot levels it lowers the springtime indoor air quality with higher indoor air mold spore counts. Of course mold spores could be filtered out with a reasonably high MERV air filter in an air purifier running on a recirculating ventilation system, but during the shoulder seasons the duty cycle on the furnace may be too low to handle it with just the filter on the main system.

In short, humidifiers are a "solution-problem", fixing one set of problems while creating others. The better way to control humidity levels indoors is to air seal the house to a tight level then moderate the indoor humidity to safe & comfortable levels (~30-40% RH @ 70F in your location) by varying the ventilation rate. It need not be a heat recovery ventilator under dehumidistat control, but could be. In most homes simply monitoring indoor humidity levels and running the bath & kitchen exhaust fans a bit longer than usual if the humidity is creeping up north of 40% RH @ 70F when it's the average outdoor daily temp is running cooler than 45F.)

2) if I should just simply buy a metal board to block the hole, tape it around to prevent air leaking?

Don't use tape- use duct mastic (available in tubs at most box stores.) First apply ~1/16"-1/8" of mastic onto the ductwork at the mating area- screw the cover in place spacing the screws every ~6-8" or so. Then apply 1/8" =1/4" of mastic covering over the perimeter edge, and over the tops of the screws. If you can still see what type of screw head it is, it's not thick enough.

Only if the existing ductwork and new sheet metal is EXTREMELY clean will tape solutions work. Even with new duct metal it's advisable to clean off the taping surface with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil residues that will interfere with the long term performance of the adhesives. Any UL188 rated aluminum tape will do, eg: Nashua 324A, available at most box stores. There are others.

Some of your exposed ductwork may have seams & joints that have not been properly sealed. Use the rest of the tub to seal every seam and joint that you can get at- it makes a difference. Pulling the registers and return grilles one can at least mastic-seal the seams of the duct boots, and seal the duct boot to the wall/floor/ceiling. When sealing dissimilar materials (say, galvanized duct boot to wallboard or wood) it's better to use mesh tape reinforcement, or UL188 tape overlayed with mastic. Where the thickness of a layer of mastic would make the register or grille fit unevenly, clean the wall/floor/ceiling well and use UL188 tape, folding it over into the duct boot, with mastic reinforcement at the tape edge.

If 2), any risk if I leave all the cables, water pipes, as is(hanging around)? where should I buy the metal board and what kind of tape I should use to seal? any temporary solution to block the hole before I can buy the right board for long term?

For a temporary cover a cut up corrugated cardboard box and cheap "duct" tape (never use "duct tape" as a solution for sealing ducts- it's not nearly permanent enough, and guaranteed to fail) would be good enough for a few days or even a week.

As long as the plumbing can be valved-off it's fine to leave it in place, otherwise cap it. If not removing wiring completely capping the bare wire ends with appropriately sized wire nuts is fine.
 

WorthFlorida

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The plastic is what failed. Nothing to do with usage. Google "why does plastic get brittle" and there are many easy to read explanations written. Generally, all plastics degrade over time.
 

Dana

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The plastic is what failed. Nothing to do with usage. Google "why does plastic get brittle" and there are many easy to read explanations written. Generally, all plastics degrade over time.

Installed any humidifers in Florida lately? :)

Adding whole-house humidifers to residential fossil-fired furnace or heat pump systems is mostly a cold-climate fetish, but I guess they're common enough in more temperate Maryland too.

In any climate they are a terrible idea except in very special circumstances, where an occupant needs the higher humidity and/or very high ventilation rates for health reasons. The wicking element literally NEVER gets changed in most homes fitted with humidifiers, and ends up being gunked up with mold, becoming it's own special source of mold spores to make the indoor air unhealthy.

When I moved in my house had one, which I quickly decommissioned, since I was also air sealing and insulating the house. Unless running the exhaust fans at a high duty cycle it rarely drops under 30% RH in the house even during sub-zero cold snaps.
 

WorthFlorida

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When we rented a 1st floor flat of a 2 family home built in 1935 or so in Schenectady, NY, it had more paint than insulation in the walls and pulley windows, etc. One season I had to cover the windows with clear plastic sheeting from the inside because you swore a window was open when the wind was blowing. It had to be about a 8 degree difference from the floor to 6 feet up during the heating season. With warm air heat I had to use a Sears stand alone humidifier and it usually took more than 3 gallons a day, up to five a few times when it was 5 degrees outside. Never had condensation on the windows and lived there three years. I had three homes with forced air heat, Saratoga Springs, NY, Algonquin, Il, Cicero, NY. They all needed some humidification. My oldest son had allergy/asthma type problems, therefore, electronic air cleaners and humidification. If not, he would cough all night long in his sleep. Hydronic heating it probably would have been much less of a problem for him.
 

Dana

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When we rented a 1st floor flat of a 2 family home built in 1935 or so in Schenectady, NY, it had more paint than insulation in the walls and pulley windows, etc. One season I had to cover the windows with clear plastic sheeting from the inside because you swore a window was open when the wind was blowing. It had to be about a 8 degree difference from the floor to 6 feet up during the heating season. With warm air heat I had to use a Sears stand alone humidifier and it usually took more than 3 gallons a day, up to five a few times when it was 5 degrees outside. Never had condensation on the windows and lived there three years. I had three homes with forced air heat, Saratoga Springs, NY, Algonquin, Il, Cicero, NY. They all needed some humidification. My oldest son had allergy/asthma type problems, therefore, electronic air cleaners and humidification. If not, he would cough all night long in his sleep. Hydronic heating it probably would have been much less of a problem for him.

It's tough dealing with those issues in a rental- I've lived in apartments that were in that range of air & heat leakiness too, and it sucks.

For ~5 years I shared a ~2200' two floor apartment in Cambridge MA with 1850s (not a typo- mid 19th century) vintage single pane double hungs, no storms, a dry stacked stone (only crumbling face-parged mortar) & brick foundation, no insulation in the walls or attic, heated by a poorly retrofitted oil fired ducted hot air furnace (installed in the 1930s). On sunny days it was possible to see sunlight through the foundation at the basement door bulkhead. In summer the humidity in the basement was high enough due to the air leakage that mycelium sometimes coated parts of the rat-slab floor, with a number of different mushroom species popping up by late summer.

Under rent control the slumlord had no incentive to fix things, and anything that I or my housemates did on our own to improve things had to be sub-code to not result in a rent increase after the annual rent control board inspection. I did some amount of air sealing, and minor repairs. When pipes in the basement froze & burst I repaired them without informing the owner or the city. When the ignition on the 1930s vintage oil burner was failing I installed a late-1970s vintage flame retention type burner that I had trash-picked in front of a house down the block that had just converted to gas, swapped out the nozzle from the antique, and eyeballed the flame to adjust the air mixture. The main fuse in the 1910s vintage fuse box was 25 amps, and given the condition of the wiring I didn't dare replace it with something bigger. In summer we had to turn off the window air conditioners to run the toaster without blowing the fuse.

But it was cheap- the oil bills exceeded the rent during the winter, but was overall an uncomfortable and unhealthy place to live. By 1990 the neighborhood was becoming gentrified, the slumlord sold the place to a developer who pretended to live in one of the three apartments, which allowed him to take it off rent control. I moved out before it all came to a head, but the new owners did a cosmetic upgrade on the place inside & out, converted it into a 3 condominium, and built a 2-unit condo in the back yard. (There were a couple of people in both the city and the financing bank on that deal who went to jail for various types of fraud in those transactions too, but that's a completely separate story.)

I haven't followed NYSERDA's incentive structures for residential rental properties very closely, but when the tenants are paying the utility bills there isn't much in it for the landlords to fix even fairly egregious deficiencies like that apartment in Syracuse. For NY to meet even it's none-too-ambitious greenhouse gas reduction goals they're going to have to deal with the existing large stock of older leaky rental apartments.

But hot air can still work without active humidification. On a mid-century modern retrofit I consulted on a handful of years ago they had 9 tons of AC-sculpture retrofitted in 2 separate units on top of a barely insulated flat roof. Heating was radiant floor in the lower level (walk-out nicely finished basement) and radiant ceiling on the main level all run by a the original circa 1960 200BTU/hr-out cast iron gas burner. Whenever the AC was running it was deafening. When the heat was running the place stunk of bitumen roofing.

As part of the retrofit I suggested they build a low-pitch gabled roof over the existing roof that had maybe R10 of vermiculite (yeah, the asbestos-rich stuff) and R2 of asphalted fiberboard under the torch-down for insulation. They got rid of the above-the-roof duct sculptures, had an engineer run the Manual-J/S/D, and installed a 60,000 BTU/hr 2-stage condensing gas furnace married to a modulating 3 (or 4?) ton AC, serving 4000'+ of conditioned space. They also installed heat recovery ventilation (HRV) utilizing the same ducts, duty-cycling the HVAC air handler on it's lowest speed.

There was NO humidifier, in location with about the same wintertime temperatures & humidity as Albany NY. The place is fine- it keeps up without a problem at -10F, the air handler is whisper quiet even at high stage, and the indoor RH only drops below 35% in winter when cranking up the HRV to it's max (~50% above ASHRAE 62.2 levels.) Most of the time the indoor air quality was fine a the lowest ventilation rate (substantially below ASHRAE 6.2.) but the ventilation rates were now in their control, not much affected by wind or outdoor temperature.

It went from being one of the least comfortable houses the owners had ever lived in to the MOST comfortable house, and their prior house was heated primarily with gypcrete radiant floors. It forever changed their impressions of what hot air heating COULD be, but this was only because it wasn't the typical 3-5x oversized beast with an unbalanced & leaky duct system.

It's likely that this house in MD also has a leaky house with an oversized furnace and leaky unbalanced duct system, but the solution to dry indoor air is fixing the leaky house and leaky ducts, not pouring in moisture with a humidifier.
 

LLigetfa

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Adding whole-house humidifers to residential fossil-fired furnace or heat pump systems is mostly a cold-climate fetish, but I guess they're common enough in more temperate Maryland too.

In any climate they are a terrible idea except in very special circumstances, where an occupant needs the higher humidity and/or very high ventilation rates for health reasons.
I would stop short of calling it a fetish but agree in some cases it is fixing one problem while creating another problem. Adding humidity to counteract a leaky house is creating worse problems than the problem that the humidifier purports to fix.

When I built my home, it was to R2000 standards although I did not do the blower door test. Code required a HRV which lowered the humidity in Winter as the HRV was setup to run on low speed all the time to remove new material off-gassing. There were crank timers to kick it into high speed when needed (mostly to remove cooking smells that the range hood missed). My humidifier is controlled by a humidistat to keep the humidity at reasonable levels.

After the home contents had shed the initial off-gassing and humidity, I changed the HRV to be off unless called for by the crank timers. I sometimes think the HRV should also be controlled by humidistat in case the HRV is not manually run often enough.

I have changed the humidifier element only once in 20 years and found no evidence of mold. I do check it yearly and don't think it runs very often now that the HRV only runs on demand.
 
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