How to remove micronizer and replace with straight pipe?

[JedTheHumanoid]

Hi,

I am replacing my iron treatment system, which relies on a micronizer to inject air to oxidize the iron. The micronizer is located between the well pump and pressure tank (the entire black unit in the pic). I need to remove this micronizer and replace it with just a straight pipe for my new system (it doesn't need it, and the micronizer reduces GPM).

What is the best way to get this out, and replace it? Would PVC or nylon pipe/fittings work fine, and be able to screw directly onto the existing 1" copper male threads? Any suggestions of the best approach to get this thing out? Thanks

EDIT - added a few more pics

 

[Terry]

On the left, a plastic barbed fitting going into a female thread.
On the right male threads into a coupling. Maybe something female to those two ends with a union in the middle.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Within the area of your picture, I think that it would be possible that some skilled person could put in a union. That seems like really precision work.

Another possiblity is to elbow up, across and down. Four elbows.

Other possibilities probably exist by involving the area outside of the photo. Maybe show us a wider shot. Include the input to the pressure tank. Is that a tank tee on the right side of your photo?


The thing you want to really avoid is stressing that polyethylene pipe and the barbed ("insert" fitting.

It is possible that you could remove the innards of that micronizer. That would involve removing stuff on the right. The point for considering that option would be to minimize the stress on the poly and fitting.
"

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

Within the area of your picture, I think that it would be possible that some skilled person could put in a union. That seems like really precision work.

Another possiblity is to elbow up, across and down. Four elbows.

Other possibilities probably exist by involving the area outside of the photo. Maybe show us a wider shot. Include the input to the pressure tank. Is that a tank tee on the right side of your photo?


The thing you want to really avoid is stressing that polyethylene pipe and the barbed ("insert" fitting.

It is possible that you could remove the innards of that micronizer. That would involve removing stuff on the right. The point for considering that option would be to minimize the stress on the poly and fitting.
"

I have attached a few more pics on the first post.

Elbowing up might give me some more flexibility to work with, and not put strain on the existing pipes. Would that appreciable slow the GPM/flow from the well to the pressure tank, by adding those additional bends (rather than a straight run)?

I had not thought of removing the innards of the micronizer and then just reattaching it-- can investigate that, too.

My initial thought was similar to what @Terry suggested, which was to get two female PVC ends to screw on either side, with a straight PVC run into the middle.

Given the full pics of the area, will the copper pipes provide enough "give"/flexibility for me to unscrew the micronizer to remove it (I don't know how else I could take it out)? Thanks!

 

[Valveman]

If you have a short piece of poly pipe you could use a double barb fitting to extend the pipe. Then a 1" threaded barb adapter could be screwed into the 1" coupling.

 

[Valveman]

Or, you could upgrade to a PK1A kit and do away with that big pressure tank.

 

[Reach4]

Given the full pics of the area, will the copper pipes provide enough "give"/flexibility for me to unscrew the micronizer to remove it (I don't know how else I could take it out)? Thanks!

I think removal will involve a saw.

Another possibility is to elbow up from the barbed fitting, and tee to the copper pipe above. Then plug the input on the left. I understand that is not what you normally think of with a with a tank tee, but it is a perfectly good way to go.

For copper, there are solder repair couplings that let you insert things. Some are several inches long, and are cut to the length that you want.

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

I think removal will involve a saw.

Another possibility is to elbow up from the barbed fitting, and tee to the copper pipe above. Then plug the input on the left. I understand that is not what you normally think of with a with a tank tee, but it is a perfectly good way to go.

For copper, there are solder repair couplings that let you insert things. Some are several inches long, and are cut to the length that you want.

Do you mean something like this, where everything in black is completely removed? Thanks.

Also, I have never soldered before, and don't think this is the job to wet my feet with.

 

[Reach4]

Do you mean something like this, where everything in black is completely removed? Thanks.

No. I was thinking of teeing into the copper pipe that is over the top of that new photo. It shows in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/20210420_131950-jpg.73145/

What you propose would work too, but the that port is probably only a 1/2 inch FIP hole. I think I would like the inverted U better.

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

No. I was thinking of teeing into the copper pipe that is over the top of that new photo. It shows in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/20210420_131950-jpg.73145/

What you propose would work too, but the that port is probably only a 1/2 inch FIP hole. I think I would like the inverted U better.

You're right, what I drew would connect to 1/2 pipe, and the whole point is to keep gpm as high as possible to backwash my new iron treatment system. I apologize, but I still don't really understand what you mean. When you are writing about the "barbed fitting" you are referring to the plastic coming from the well pump, correct? And the only pipe I see above in that pic is the 1/2 inch copper pipe running from the pressure tank to my home--that's not what you're referring to, right? Thanks

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

On the left, a plastic barbed fitting going into a female thread.
On the right male threads into a coupling. Maybe something female to those two ends with a union in the middle.

Any suggestions on what type of material to do this? Would a brass 1 Inch ID Hose Barb x 1 Inch Female NPT (https://shop.prmfiltration.com/prod...itting-adapters-female-npt-x-hose-barb-1-inch ) on the plastic male on the left, and another on the copper male on the right, connected with 1" PEX be suitable? I am having a hell of a time finding a 1 inch barbed female fitting in Canada

https://shop.prmfiltration.com/prod...itting-adapters-female-npt-x-hose-barb-1-inch

 

[Reach4]

When you are writing about the "barbed fitting" you are referring to the plastic coming from the well pump, correct?

1. While I had not noticed it was plastic, yes, the place at green letter A.
2. I did not realize that the pipe to the house was only 1/2. Increasing some of that to 3/4 could be good. In fact, 3/4 to the new backwashing iron system sounds good. You could tee off near the tank, and run a new pipe to the backwashing filter. What gpm do you expect your backwashing filter to need? 8 gpm?
3. Attached IMG_5.jpg represents a possible path with the orange line. I had thought about connecting at about place C, but it would be hard to get the angle right.

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

1. While I had not noticed it was plastic, yes, the place at green letter A.
2. I did not realize that the pipe to the house was only 1/2. Increasing some of that to 3/4 could be good. In fact, 3/4 to the new backwashing iron system sounds good. You could tee off near the tank, and run a new pipe to the backwashing filter. What gpm do you expect your backwashing filter to need? 8 gpm?
3. Attached IMG_5.jpg represents a possible path with the orange line. I had thought about connecting at about place C, but it would be hard to get the angle right.

Thank you.

What I had meant, was that the small pipe that I had originally drawn as the termination of my new proposed line is only 1/2 inch. That is referring only to that one small piece. I could unscrew that, and then tie in right near the pressure tank into the 1" pipe.

The run from the well pump to the pressure tank itself (up to the spigot) is 1". From then on, it is reduced to 3/4".

My new iron treatment is Katalox Lite, and requires 7 GPM for backwash.

Your image is very helpful, and thanks for taking the time. I had no idea that I could run a line similar to your orange one, and connect the intake from the well pump to the pipes downstream of the pressure tank. I thought I would have to connect it somewhere in the 1" pipe BEFORE the pressure tank. But, I suppose what you're saying is that this doesn't matter, and the water can be taken in at a point above the pressure tank, without issues (ie the tank will still build pressure, if say it is triggered on at <30 PSI and the taps are being used at the same time)? I guess the one thing to note about that is that I will have to reduce from 1" to 3/4" for the water intake since that pipe is 3/4 "" at point B in your pic.

I am having a tough time finding PEX and/or sharkbite connectors for 1" in Canada. Would schedule 40 PVC be OK for this application?

As you can tell, I am an amateur at this, but at least I have 3 options:

1) direct replacement a la Terry's post
2) removing micronizer and running parallel line as per my diagram in post #8
3) running a new line and connecting in above the pressure tank into the 3/4" pipe as per your diagram

 

[Reach4]

My new iron treatment is Katalox Lite, and requires 7 GPM for backwash.

10x54 tank? I would prefer 8 or 9 gpm if your water temperature is above 50F 10 C.

Did you mean post #8?

Technically 1 inch PVC would be great. US codes now officially don't allow new pvc for pressure indoors. No good reason for that restriction IMO. They are fine with CPVC, which is smaller. Still, 1 inch CPVC is bigger than 3/4 copper.

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

10x54 tank? I would prefer 8 or 9 gpm if your water temperature is above 50F 10 C.

Did you mean post #8?

Technically 1 inch PVC would be great. US codes now officially don't allow new pvc for pressure indoors. No good reason for that restriction IMO. They are fine with CPVC, which is smaller. Still, 1 inch CPVC is bigger than 3/4 copper.

Oops, I had meant post #8. As for the GPM for backwash, I will retest my water temperature, but last time I did it, it was 8 C. The manufacturer also recommended 7 GPM. It is a 10 inch tank.

OK, I can't enter any stores around here until mid-May due to the lockdown, so I will order a variety of PVC and Pex fittings so that I have a bunch of options on hand for when I actually do this, since I can't run out in a pinch to grab anything missing.

On the topic of PVC--if I used it, I would be planning on using a female PVC fitting to screw on to the plastic male threads coming from the well, and also the copper male threads closer to the pressure tank. Is it okay to screw a female PVC onto a copper male thread, or must it always be done the other way ( I had read online that one should always screw copper female onto PVC male, since it compresses it)?

 

[Reach4]

On the topic of PVC--if I used it, I would be planning on using a female PVC fitting to screw on to the plastic male threads coming from the well, and also the copper male threads closer to the pressure tank. Is it okay to screw a female PVC onto a copper male thread, or must it always be done the other way

Female plastic threads are usually to be avoided, but some may be strong enough. Don't overtighten. Consider using both pipe dope that is OK for plastic and PTFE tape both. Some are even metal-reinforced.

 

[JedTheHumanoid]

Update:
I bought this, https://www.cwts.ca/products/falcon-gen-u-flex-™-connector-1x-12-long-connector to solve my problem, as it gives me some flexibility to connect the two male threads remaining after I remove the micronizer (and some sharkbite connections with one make thread end in case I need them). Thanks for everyone's input!