Horseonaboat
New Member
Hi folks!
I'm installing a new corner tub in an old bathroom. The drain and overflow are about 9" apart at a 45° angle from the walls (the drain is about 38" from each wall and the overflow is about 44" from the walls). As luck would have it the 9" pipe between the drain and the overflow lands right on the joist. I will be replacing the existing 2x10 joist with a 2 1/2" x 9 1/2" I-joist (I'm sistering 2 joists and replacing 2 joists with I-joists to stiffen the bathroom floor because the full bath will be quite heavy). I can adjust the position of the I-joist a bit but I can't place it out of the way so, instead, I will centre it with the 9" pipe between drain and overflow. I can either go with a direct outlet or conventional outlet but I need to go down a few inches from the tub's drain before turning towards the overflow to avoid the joist top flange (I-joist flanges cannot be cut or notched). All the drains I have seen turn immediately below the tub and that would cut into the flange.
My plan is to make my own drain assembly from PVC and a drain half kit. I will have the Ø 1 1/2". drain pipe go down somewhat below the 1 1/2" thick joist top flange and make a hole (holes up to 6" diameter can be made in the web without compromising the joist) through the flange to connect the drain to the overflow. I would cross the flange at the highest point possible so that the p-trap doesn't end up sticking out below the joists. The hole through the web would be oval since I'm going through the web at a 45° angle.
Structurally, I think I'm good -- I'm following all the joist manufacturer's specs. Plumbing-wise, are there any issues? The drain kits and half kits I found all have a threaded 90° turn right at the tub outlet (whether it's an elbow or a tee) but I haven't found threaded waste straights or unions that would allow me to screw the tub drain to the pipes and go down a few inches before turning 90°... is that going to be a problem? I guess I could use a tee and cap the branch if I had to.
If this works out, the next step would be to connect to 2" pipe. Should I do that after the p-trap or is it better to have a 2" p-trap?
Thanks.
I'm installing a new corner tub in an old bathroom. The drain and overflow are about 9" apart at a 45° angle from the walls (the drain is about 38" from each wall and the overflow is about 44" from the walls). As luck would have it the 9" pipe between the drain and the overflow lands right on the joist. I will be replacing the existing 2x10 joist with a 2 1/2" x 9 1/2" I-joist (I'm sistering 2 joists and replacing 2 joists with I-joists to stiffen the bathroom floor because the full bath will be quite heavy). I can adjust the position of the I-joist a bit but I can't place it out of the way so, instead, I will centre it with the 9" pipe between drain and overflow. I can either go with a direct outlet or conventional outlet but I need to go down a few inches from the tub's drain before turning towards the overflow to avoid the joist top flange (I-joist flanges cannot be cut or notched). All the drains I have seen turn immediately below the tub and that would cut into the flange.
My plan is to make my own drain assembly from PVC and a drain half kit. I will have the Ø 1 1/2". drain pipe go down somewhat below the 1 1/2" thick joist top flange and make a hole (holes up to 6" diameter can be made in the web without compromising the joist) through the flange to connect the drain to the overflow. I would cross the flange at the highest point possible so that the p-trap doesn't end up sticking out below the joists. The hole through the web would be oval since I'm going through the web at a 45° angle.
Structurally, I think I'm good -- I'm following all the joist manufacturer's specs. Plumbing-wise, are there any issues? The drain kits and half kits I found all have a threaded 90° turn right at the tub outlet (whether it's an elbow or a tee) but I haven't found threaded waste straights or unions that would allow me to screw the tub drain to the pipes and go down a few inches before turning 90°... is that going to be a problem? I guess I could use a tee and cap the branch if I had to.
If this works out, the next step would be to connect to 2" pipe. Should I do that after the p-trap or is it better to have a 2" p-trap?
Thanks.
