Maybe you should tell us what exactly you are trying to accomplish. Is this a residential or commercial application? what is your expected service flow? what is your hardness? how many gallons do you expect to use daily? etc.
Residential ranch style home with 3/4 basement occupied by two adults and having: single bathroom with shower/tub, low-flow toilet, sink; kitchen with sink and dishwasher; laundry with full size washer. Mostly we shower, but sometimes bathe. So, medium/low water use.
Well is 4-inch casement, 42 feet deep. Pump is 1/2 HP, 10 gpm capacity at 20-foot drop. Pressure tank 13 gallons capacity.
Water has (units mg/L): Hardness = 190, Fe = 1.2, Mn = 0.08, Tannin = 0.6. pH = 7.6. Iron and sulfate bacteria are present, as evidenced by biofilm on toilet tank flapper, slow accumulation of feathery orange deposits in a glass of water let stand two days, and initial waft of hydrogen sulfide when any tap first turned on, soon dissipating.
Neighbors mostly have ordinary softener with anti-iron salt. They still get iron staining, however. Not much, but still some. I want a better result. But not at a cost of over-frequent large-volume backwash cycles. I would go with Ecomix C were it not for the iron bacteria issue.
So am wanting more iron reduction than my neighbors achieve with their softener-only systems and lowest possible backwash to be got while doing that. More frequent backwashes of smaller volume to be preferred over fewer ones of large volume.
My floor drain is a 1.25 OD, 80-mesh well point 4 feet tall with its point driven 7 feet to penetrate the water table by 3 inches. All are 304 stainless steel. I have carried this up to 5 feet above floor level with 1.25 inch PVC pipe at 45 degrees slope. An 80-mesh high-volume screen filter at 2 1.5 feet above floor level protects the 80-mesh well point from clogging.
Should that overflow, then there is backup route to sump pump well where foundation drain apertures are 6-inch OD. Should that fill up, the sump pump would come into play. I would prefer that this overflow route not be routinely employed.
The elaborate drain exists to avoid high volume water and brine from damaging my circa 1975 septic tank and drain field. The top of the well-point drain is a cross, so I can add a 2nd such 4-foot long well-point drain a few feet away if proves needful.
So it is that I am kicking around the idea of a dual tank system with smaller tanks. I have had it explained to me that neither Clack nor Fleck are progressive systems. Culligan has one, but their proprietary lock-in offends my open-source nature. I never buy anything by Apple computers for that same reason. I am an engineer and want to maintain this myself.
