Donut Sizing For Cast Iron Pipe

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Jadnashua

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You need to read the instructions. On a similar system, you do it in multiple layers...have not used that one. Also, last time I tried to find the materials, the shop handed me a tube they dug out of the back (hardly ever used it) that was 10-years past its 'use by' date...hopefully, the stuff you get is still good. The donuts are much more common in use as, if you get the right size, it's much quicker and cleaner. If that doesn't work, the next most common way to do it is with a hubless connector, but depending on the situation, that might require cutting more out (or not)!
 

Asktom

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Soil-o is a powder that is mixed with water so it isn't going to go bad. Pack the hub tightly half way with oakum and then add the Soil-o following directions on the container. There are also directions on line.
 

brb

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Thanks for the help guys! The oakum and soil-o worked great. It was really easy and it is holding very solid after a few hours.

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brb

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Alright guys, inspector said this is not a acceptable form of connection. Anybody have any other ideas?
 

Kreemoweet

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Get some of that old-fashioned rubber tape that electricians used to use, and give your Fernco donut
a wrap or two (whatever it takes to make it fit "tight"). Will not be visible to Mr. Inspector. In all
liklihood, will never leak either. That tape pretty much "welds" itself to any other rubber, including
itself. I've personally cut open 50-year-old wire splices using that stuff, and it was all in great shape.
 

Reach4

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Will the inspector accept poured lead?
 

brb

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kreemoweet-that may be what I have to do to make it work.
Spooky-That is a option but it seems like I would need to do some serious bracing of the stack hold it up
Reach4-He said it needed to be a approved fitting so the poured lead will not work.
 

Jadnashua

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I know that they've outlawed lead in solder connections in plumbing, but I was not aware that any places had outlawed leaded waste connections on CI piping. True, much of the newer CI piping is hubless, but that's more (I think) because most plumbers have lost the art of making leaded ones (plus, I think it's faster) than the lead being a problem since it should never come in contact with the waste.

Does the stuff you used list any certifications? The guy may just be unaware, and if presented with a current test report showing it meets codes (if it does, of course!), he should approve it and he doesn't really have a leg to stand on. If the stuff does not have any certification tests, then he's obviously correct. Sometimes, it's not worth challenging an inspector...can come back to haunt you later if you ever need to do something else, but that's only a decision you can make.
 

Cham

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can you get Fernco 3x2(33U-205) and slit out small part of it and use it? There will be a crack but that can be fixe wit h and ruber glue.
What do you think?
 

Cham

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Terry: Why do you think it is a bad idea ? What are the faling point ? If I cut right amount it should fit well. I am not sure how hard to cut this.

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Jian

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Hello! Just wondering if anyone has a idea on what size donut would work to connect 2in pvc to the hub in this cast iron main stack. I have not removed the lead and pipe yet, but did take some measurements. I think it is 3 1/4 I.D. I called Fernco and they only make a 3 in I.D. donut. Does this taper to the point where the 3in will work? Would love to have all this sorted before I remove it. Thanks for the help!

Have you find a solution for this? I have the same issue.
 

anderbro

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Also having the same problem.

Is it possible the inspector had an issue with the oakum/soil-o repair as not being approved because it’s not approved for use with PVC? If soil-o is a lead alternative, you wouldn’t use lead with PVC, so that may be the issue. What about using oakum and soil-o to add a galvanized stub instead, and then use a fernco sleeve to transition to PVC?

I know this is an old thread. Fingers crossed.
 

Jefflatham

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BRB - I seem to be in the same boat. Cast iron soil pipe system, 1940s installation. I won't say I'm encountering "odd" dimensions with the CI wye I'm working on, as I'm not a tradesman; but my solutions - so far - don't seem to fall within modern-ish standards.

I'm adapting a sink drain to a CI hub, roughly 3-1/8" ID. The previous owners had managed with a lot of electrical tape and some luck, it would seem...one of those situations where "not touching anything" allowed this fix to last for more than a decade. But I'm a toucher of things, hence my need of repair at this point.

Any luck or input on finding a donut that fits nice and snug? I'm sifting through local stores at the moment, looking for something that I can lube up and pound into place. Seems that there must be a better way...


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Reach4

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It does look like you can scrape some more off of that cast iron hub inside with a knife.
I'm adapting a sink drain to a CI hub, roughly 3-1/8" ID.
Get a 6-inch digital caliper. I like https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html
Get their stainless model that does not do fractions. Measures inside, outside, and depth. I like to order some 357 batteries via Ebay. You can get several for the price you would pay in a store.

Any luck or input on finding a donut that fits nice and snug? I'm sifting through local stores at the moment, looking for something that I can lube up and pound into place. Seems that there must be a better way...
Once you have your measurements, I suggest you contact Fernco. https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts
 
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