Glued-In Sink Plumbing

Users who are viewing this thread

MisterJJ

New Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Durham, NC
I ripped out an old bathroom sink to replace with new and I found that the previous owner glued the drain line in place and now there's no room to cut it off and add a proper connection so I can position the p-trap correctly. Any ideas on how best to fix this?

misterjj-01.jpg


misterjj-02.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
If there is space between the coupling and santee cut it off remove escutcheon and glue another coupling on . otherwise you need to remove pipe from hub . there has been several postings lately on how to remove a glue in pipe from fitting .

p-trap_with_adapter.jpg


Or a trap adapter and that way it's easily removed when you need to remove it to clean the trap.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

MisterJJ

New Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Durham, NC
If there is space between the coupling and santee cut it off remove escutcheon and glue another coupling on . otherwise you need to remove pipe from hub . there has been several postings lately on how to remove a glue in pipe from fitting .

Not enough space between coupling and wall to get glue in a fitting with full insertion. But I could probably get enough to work. I hate doing things half-arsed like that though.

I didn't see any obvious posts about removing glue in pipe. How the heck do you remove a solvent welded fitting? I did some googling and found an ABS reamer, which seems like it would work. Kinda expensive for something I would likely use once.
 

Skoronesa

Member
Messages
35
Reaction score
21
Points
8
Location
East Bumfuk, Mississippi
..... I did some googling and found an ABS reamer, which seems like it would work. Kinda expensive for something I would likely use once.

They make cheaper(less than 100$) versions but they really aren't good. The most foolproof way(without opening the wall) is to get a good reamer. Old ABS gets brittle and the reamers can catch and crack it. Or you could go the very pedantic route of grinding it out/off with a dremel.
 

Skoronesa

Member
Messages
35
Reaction score
21
Points
8
Location
East Bumfuk, Mississippi
If it's going to be inside a vanity and you can't patch drywall just cut open the wall, replace the tee in the wall and stub out a new piece, and then put a painted piece of plywood over the whole thing. Technically it should be fireproof so you could do a piece of sheetmetal or drywall.

That's why I am a plumber and not a painter/drywaller ;)
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,794
Reaction score
4,411
Points
113
Location
IL
If it's going to be inside a vanity and you can't patch drywall just cut open the wall, replace the tee in the wall and stub out a new piece, and then put a painted piece of plywood over the whole thing. Technically it should be fireproof so you could do a piece of sheetmetal or drywall.
I used thin prefinished flooring planks that were made for a floating floor. By having the planks that interlocked, I could cut and screw the pieces in. It was easier to clear the supply lines and trap adapter more easily. The finish was selected to be similar to the inside of the cabinet.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
They make cheaper(less than 100$) versions but they really aren't good. The most foolproof way(without opening the wall) is to get a good reamer. Old abs gets brittle and the reamers can catch and crack it. Or you could go the very pedantic route of grinding it out/off with a dremel.

MRjj I was thinking you could cut it right at coupling and scrape around the drywall so you would get full insertion, wasn't talking about only partial engagement. pretty easy job more than one way to do it. you've got all the options let us know how it works out.
 

MisterJJ

New Member
Messages
14
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Durham, NC
I didn't really think about just digging into the wall. With my luck, the T connection will be right behind the escutcheon (that's a weird word). But if so I could just cut away the wall and do what needs to be done. Thanks for the idea.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,753
Reaction score
2,164
Points
113
Location
92346
you gain 1/4 inch just removing escutcheon im just looking at a picture but it looks pretty close to having full depth
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks