How to pigtail wire in a flexible conduit - and gauge should be matching?

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Curiousv

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I have 12 gauge wire coming from wall and its about 4-6 inches short where it has meet on top of tanked heater.
Heater also has 12 gauge wire so if I had little 12 gauge wire somewhere ...I would make a pigtail but I don't have ..and I don't want to go to store......I have 14 and 10 gauge wire .....can I use any of them to pigtail ...it is only 6 inches short ...if yes ..what gauge should I prefer 14 or 10?

Also another problem ...if I use wire nut to make it longer....it will not fit in that flexible conduit ...

So what is the solution for that? @Terry
Can I use this - https://www.harborfreight.com/30-pack-watertight-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-66729.html
 
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Reach4

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You are not supposed to make splices, except in an accessible box. Maybe put a box at the wall?
 

WorthFlorida

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You need to use at least a 12 gauge wire, not 14. A water heater that is wired for 12 gauge must have a 20 amp breaker. Homes built before the 1980's were generally wired with 12 gauge, it is now 10 gauge and a 30 amp breaker for 4500 watt water heaters. The wire inside the appliance is governed by UL and CSA requirements, not NEC. Wire is generally smaller than the feed wire in most appliances but will have 90*C rated wire.

Problem is there are a lot of homes wired with 12 gauge for when most electric water heaters were 3800 watt. Most WH's today are 4500 watt elements @240 volts. 3800 watt draws about 15 amps, 4500 watt draw 18 amps. A 20 amp breaker may feel warm to the touch when the water is being heated and could lead to false tripping. Sears water heaters were mostly sold with 3800 watt elements since they were nearly 100% replacement market (I sold a lot of them during the 1990's).
 

Curiousv

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You need to use at least a 12 gauge wire, not 14. A water heater that is wired for 12 gauge must have a 20 amp breaker. Homes built before the 1980's were generally wired with 12 gauge, it is now 10 gauge and a 30 amp breaker for 4500 watt water heaters. The wire inside the appliance is governed by UL and CSA requirements, not NEC. Wire is generally smaller than the feed wire in most appliances but will have 90*C rated wire.

Problem is there are a lot of homes wired with 12 gauge for when most electric water heaters were 3800 watt. Most WH's today are 4500 watt elements @240 volts. 3800 watt draws about 15 amps, 4500 watt draw 18 amps. A 20 amp breaker may feel warm to the touch when the water is being heated and could lead to false tripping. Sears water heaters were mostly sold with 3800 watt elements since they were nearly 100% replacement market (I sold a lot of them during the 1990's).
Changing both elements to 3800 watts can solve the problem unless you want to rewire that circuit and breaker upgrade. You are right its 20 amp dp breaker and 12 gauge wire
 
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