Rusted tub replacement

[NorthDenverYom]

I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wanted to know how pressing the issue is.

We bought this house in July from an older couple and the lack of maintenance and the outright failure to disclose issues has been very frustrating.

There is a leak coming from the guest bathtub and dripping on the wet bar below. The leak only happens during a bath and not a shower. The drain and overflow appear to be in working condition.

I removed the crown moulding piece on the cabinets and sure enough there two inspection holes in the drywall above the cabinets. I was able to take some pictures and it appears that the tub is rusted out. However, the drain appears to be intact, so I am not not sure why it is leaking. I considered removing the drain flange, but I am concerned that is will destroy the tub. Also, there appears to be corrosion on both the copper drain pipe and hot water supply.

Thoughts?
Thanks in advanced.

 

[Terry]

Normally the seal takes place with the rubber washer between the tub and the drain shoe. You can try replacing that, or the entire tub waste and overflow and see if that does it before you contemplate ripping the tub and tile out. It's worth a try if you're not ready to dump the tub yet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[NorthDenverYom]

Thanks, Terry. Good advice. I'd have to remove the cabinet and some drywall to do so. I'm afraid that the tub would just fall apart. It is 35 years old and wifey would like to see it go.

 

[Jadnashua]

The cast iron tub I grew up with was over 60-years old and going strong. Now, my mother used comet on it over the years, and ground down the finish to a dull one (it used to be more abrasive than it is today), but still no rust...functionally, it was perfect. I had wanted to replace it for her, but she didn't want me to. I did update the bath upstairs, and she liked that.

After 35-years, the tile and fixtures probably could use an update.

 

[Terry]

Jim, Cast Iron does last a long time. In 2011 I was in the Kohler factory, watching them pour the hot molten iron into molds for the tubs. Workers were wearing shorts and T-shirts. It was a bit warm.
Kohler does make the best tubs.

Newport Oregon

 

[NorthDenverYom]

Well, I removed the tub and plan on replacing with a fiberglass Kohler Underscore acrylic tub. The one that I removed appears to be steel porcelain coated tub. So it did not weigh much more than the acrylic tub. There was a 6" knee wall on the far side which made the removal super easy

I've got the tub out and doing some rough measurements on the new ones. Of course, the drain doesn't line up. The old drain is about 14.5" from the right wall and about 2.5-3.0 from the back wall. The new drain is 16" from the right wall and about 2-2.5" from the back wall. Three part question:

1. The existing p-trap and L is snuggled up against the floor joist. So to move the drain and p-trap I guess I cut the floor out, notch the joist and redo the drain?

2. The vent for tub and the toilet is in back wall (pretty sure load bearing). I want to install another 2x6 to be a nailing stud for the new shower door. It would wind up between the two vents and through a hole through the stud. Is this ok?

3. I am replacing the valve with a Kohler K-8304-K-NA valve tub and shower fixture. I'm sure it's been asked a million times, what should the height of the tub spout, valve and shower head (code?)? I've seen several heights for all. New tub is 4" taller that old tub,

Thanks is advanced.

 

[Terry]

1) A joist needs 2" on the top and the bottom to keep it's structural strength. You can cut a longer hole there if you're relocating the drain.

2) You already have support in the wall, adding backing for the tub door even with the added hole is fine.

3" I like the tub spout 5" above the top of the tub, Kohler likes 4". The copper pipe from the spout to the valve runs between 7" and 18" and Kohler likes 10".
Shower head at least 72" above the floor. I do mine more like 75" to 80"

Do you have access to the ceiling from below? Not needed but it might make changing the p-trap a bit easier.
On our new installs, we used glued up drains without the slip joint nuts.

 

[NorthDenverYom]

Thanks, Terry. I've been updating the build over at John Bridge forum, if you are interested. Got the Kohler plumbed in and fixed the p-trap.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=131446&page=2

Thanks for your advice.

 

[NorthDenverYom]

Terry,

The Kohler slotted overflow is leaking something bad. I put silicone on the gasket between the tub and the gasket. Is there any tricks to get this leak proof? I'm going to have to remove it and try again. I think maybe more silicone on both sides of the gasket. Can the gasket be removed and re-siliconed? If I can do that, I'm thinking of using clamps to seal the assembly to the tub prior to screwing it on. If I can make it leak proof with out the screws I'd be on the right track. The overflow has been on for a week

 

[John Gayewski]

You may have glued your assembly at an angle that prevents the gasket from sealing.

Do you have the gasket right side up? That is the thin part should be on top.

 

[Johnssc1]

Terry,

The Kohler slotted overflow is leaking something bad. I put silicone on the gasket between the tub and the gasket. Is there any tricks to get this leak proof? I'm going to have to remove it and try again. I think maybe more silicone on both sides of the gasket. Can the gasket be removed and re-siliconed? If I can do that, I'm thinking of using clamps to seal the assembly to the tub prior to screwing it on. If I can make it leak proof with out the screws I'd be on the right track. The overflow has been on for a week

Did you ever figure out a solution for this? I'm about to put the same drain on and am concerned about this fit. The gasket is not beveled and is the same thickness throughout