Adding new outlets to an unfinished garage

[New2plumb]

Hello,

I'm looking to add a few outlets/receptacles to my unfinished garage and wanted to check on the best way/correct way for NC. I believe the garage was build in the mid 1980's. Currently there is a 20amp circuit running to the garage with two outlets and a light switch, one of the outlets is connected in the center of the garage on the ceiling joist and the other along the wall. The one along the wall was added by drilling holes in the studs to the outlet and the one on the ceiling joists ran up the stud to the ceiling joist but then was just laid across the ceiling joists and both outlets are regular 120v outlets and I want to leave the garage unfinished. So, for the questions:
1. Are GFCI outlets required in a garage and if so can they be 15amp or need to be 20amp
2. Should I use 12/2 NM-B wire as long as I run it up the studs and drop down where I want to add each outlet along the stud(not drilling holes in the studs so if could be considered a hazard for something falling on it?) or be used for a hanging rack?

3. If question 2 is a no, what kind of conduit/wire would I need to use?

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[Reach4]

Are GFCI outlets required in a garage and if so can they be 15amp or need to be 20amp

Required or not, they are a good idea. They can be 15 amp even tho it is a 20 amp circuit. I left the hard questions.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

GFCI, a good chance the garage is already on a GFCI. Early on with it first became code, the GFCI was built into the circuit breaker. If it is then the bathroom might also be wired to this circuit. As the outlet GFCI became less costly and available they are used almost exclusively. If you current circuit is not on a GFCI, please add one. Plenty of YouTube's on this subject. If you do not have a GFCI tester, all tool boxes should have one. It's only $10.

You can use NMC cable but it has to be anchored with U nails or other fasteners. If the wire goes up on the inside of the stud or through the wall studs to add an outlet it would need protection if it can be subject to impact. Or use 12-2 MC, metallic clad cable usually with aluminum cladding.. You do need to use 12-2 gauge wire for the 20 amp circuit, but outlets, switches and GFCI can be rated at 15 amp as Reach mentioned.

 

[Jadnashua]

I'd just replace the circuit breaker with a 20A GFCI, then, anything you do in the garage would be protected. If you can figure out the first device in the chain, you could install a GFCI there, and protect things downstream if you wish.

Most receptacles are rated at 20A pass-through, but may only be rated for 15A local use...if you have a 20A circuit, why not just put in 20A receptacles? All of your 15A plugs will fit, and if you ever had the need of one that came with a 20A plug, you'd be all set.

 

[wwhitney]

if you have a 20A circuit, why not just put in 20A receptacles?

Because usually they cost extra and provide no advantages over a 20A receptacle? Unless you have a very, very, very rare appliance that comes with a 5-20 cord cap.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jadnashua]

They probably will last longer as the contact area larger and is less likely to heat up and lose spring tension...the difference in price is minor, and much cheaper than replacing them again down the line. Of places in a home, a garage may be more likely to encounter something needing a 20A plug. But, hey, do what you wish.

 

[wwhitney]

They probably will last longer as the contact area larger and is less likely to heat up and lose spring tension.

Within a given product line (identical model numbers except -15 or -20, so to speak), they are identical except for the nylon face piece (and possibly the wipers that would be useless on the 15 amp model, not sure on that).

Of course, the cheapest product lines won't have a 20-amp option, so choosing a 20 amp receptacle at least guarantees a minimum quality. But unless you have a piece of equipment with a 5-20 plug (which I've never seen), there's zero benefit to paying more for an extra slot in the face piece--get the 15 amp version.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[New2plumb]

Thank you for all the replies. I'll have to price out the 15 vs 20, but I know the 15's were a little cheaper. This is on a detached garage, on its own circuit. I think I'll use the 12-2 NMB and add fasteners and follow along the studs to be safe. But any other advice that might be helpful is always welcome, but I really appreciate the responses.

 

[Reach4]

Thank you for all the replies. I'll have to price out the 15 vs 20, but I know the 15's were a little cheaper. This is on a detached garage, on its own circuit. I think I'll use the 12-2 NMB and add fasteners and follow along the studs to be safe. But any other advice that might be helpful is always welcome, but I really appreciate the responses.

If each outlet has it's own GFCI, it's easiest to figure out where to reset the GFCI. Cascading is cheaper.

 

[Jadnashua]

If each outlet has it's own GFCI, it's easiest to figure out where to reset the GFCI. Cascading is cheaper.

If you have more than a couple of GFCI receptacles, it's likely cheaper to just replace the breaker...but, to reset, you have to go to the panel. In reality, at least from my experience, tripping a GFCI is a rare occurrence. It would shut everything on the entire branch off, so that might be an annoyance if it included the lights. Pros and cons to everything!

 

[CarlH]

A heck, I'll weigh in with my 2 cents. It sounds like the light switch is on the same circuit as the outlets. If that is the case, I would not go with the GFCI breaker since you will lose your lights if you trip the GFCI. I would go with one GFCI outlet and wire all the other outlets to the load of the GFCI outlet. I'm not going to comment on 15A vs. 20A outlets, but I do recommend that you use something better than standard residential grade outlets in your garage. Chances are that those outlets will get a little more abuse. I would go commercial grade at a minimum but prefer industrial grade. Both of those style outlets will probably not have the option for the push in type back wiring which is good since it will prevent you from being tempted from using that. Commercial outlets might cost 2x the price of cheap residential and industrial might be 4x. In the big picture it is not that much money but it is worth the extra.

Point of reference, I had two of the three outlets in my garage get damaged with one of them being so bad that the integrity of the electrical contacts was of serious concern. That became more of a concern when I needed to charge an EV from that questionable outlet. I replaced those outlets with industrial grade and then finally installed a 240V 50A outlet in the garage for EV charging.

 

[Jadnashua]

The latest iteration of GFCI devices are not prone to 'false' tripping, so I'd have no big issue with using a GFCI breaker versus a GFCI receptacle. But, if I did go with a receptacle, it would save money to use the load output to feed others downstream...but, then you still have the issue of everything there and downstream would be off if it tripped. Might depend on where the light in the garage is tapped off in the wiring stream. Either will work. In reality, if a GFCI does trip, you have a problem and it may have saved your life in the process!

 

[WorthFlorida]

GFCI outlets can be bought with an internal alarm signal when it trips. There are all kinds of plug in devices sold to audible alarms on power failures with some offering alerts via WiFi. Jim, you're right, there are hardly any false trips anymore. I cannot remember the last time I had any.

 

[CarlH]

My advise to not use the breaker if the lighting is on the same circuit was not out of concern of a false trip. I would hate to lose my lighting if any trip ever occurred which could lead to a hazardous situation of trying to navigate in the dark. I understand it would be easier to troubleshoot the loss in power with a GFCI breaker, but my preference for maintaining lighting outweighs that convenience. I don't think I have ever had a false trips either. However the genius who wired my house put 3 bathrooms, the garage, front outside outlet, and rear outside outlet all on the same 15A circuit and GFCI. I assume that they were trying to save money on GFCI outlets. Yes, this has led to an occasional overload, but never a false trip of the GFCI.