Will Sharkbite Work On Copper With Leftover Solder

[atw58]

I'm planning to tuck copper pipes below floor joists to avoid bulkheads in a drywall ceiling and want to cut the pipe then use a push on fitting because the pipe is very close to the joist. You can see the char marks on the wood from the original installer. If there is still solder on the copper will Sharkbite connector still work. I may need to cut the pipe with a dremel or hacksaw then find a way to deburr/smooth the outside edge.

 

[Terry]

Sometimes it works. It depends on how smooth you get it,
And then sand the pipe.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Helper Dave]

No, it will not. All fittings need a smooth surface to seal.

If there's a lot of solder, try and pick it off with a blade or chisel. Then smooth it up with sand cloth, or similar.

 

[Terry]

As a plumber, I have done it. I heat the pipe and wipe off the solder with a rag. Then I use emory cloth to sand it. It's doable. At least by me and others. I'm not saying everyone can do this though. But I'm guessing that if you follow my instructions, you will be able to do it too.

 

[Reach4]

As a plumber, I have done it. I heat the pipe and wipe off the solder with a rag. Then I use emory cloth to sand it. It's doable. At least by me and others. I'm not saying everyone can do this though. But I'm guessing that if you follow my instructions, you will be able to do it too.

If he could heat the pipe enough to wipe, he could probably solder a copper coupling.

 

[Terry]

If he could heat the pipe enough to wipe, he could probably solder a copper coupling.

If he can't heat the pipe, then he will need to cut further back then.

 

[atw58]

Thanks for the advice. The reason I'm a bit nervous is the connection will be hidden in the basement ceiling. I will also consider drilling a couple of holes in the floor near the existing pipe and install new copper a few inches away. As you can tell I am not a plumber but reasonably experienced with soldering skills. Is there a method to fasten the new vertical pipe to structure or can it float held by the 90 degree elbow. I noticed the builder jammed a piece of copper between the joist and soldered the vertical copper to it.

 

[Reach4]

Is there a method to fasten the new vertical pipe to structure or can it float held by the 90 degree elbow. I noticed the builder jammed a piece of copper between the joist and soldered the vertical copper to it.

Usually it is held above by something. There is something called a riser clamp that you could put above or below, and hold up somehow. Available from 1/2 inch and up to big sizes.

 

[atw58]

Good to know.

Never seen a riser clamp before at least in a residential home. They seem to be used in more industrial settings.

 

[Reach4]

There are heat shields for soldering.

 

[Jeff H Young]

As a plumber, I have done it. I heat the pipe and wipe off the solder with a rag. Then I use emory cloth to sand it. It's doable. At least by me and others. I'm not saying everyone can do this though. But I'm guessing that if you follow my instructions, you will be able to do it too.

I keep a file handy and know how to use it . But clean it off as terry suggests at times as well. if you can feel any bump whatsoever I wouldnt install a sharkbite especialy in concealed space , but if its totaly smooth its good, debur ends inside and out for insurance

 

[Jeff H Young]

Good to know.

Never seen a riser clamp before at least in a residential home. They seem to be used in more industrial settings.

Yes far more common in commercial and industrial. They are also used as temporary support come in real handy for that. one trick if you dont have a riser clamp is to use a piece of uni strut (also not so common on houses) with a clamp. I do that frequently as a temporary support frequently sometimes a several small pipes like 1 inch and below like 3 or 4 pipes ill use one piece of strut even permanant

 

[JohnCT]

Thanks for the advice. The reason I'm a bit nervous is the connection will be hidden in the basement ceiling.

If it's a drop ceiling, I wouldn't worry about it. Prepare the surface as Terry explains and stuff one on. If it's going to be sheetrocked or otherwise "permanently" covered, have a pro sweat in a new fitting or replace the pipe as needed.

I know Sharkbites are approved for behind the wall use, but I don't care for that idea and if it's a pipe where old solder has been removed, even less so.

John

 

[Jadnashua]

You may be able to use a SHarkbite slip coupling. That will allow you to bridge a gap if you have to cut out the ends where there's solder. I think they can handle about a 2" gap between the two ends of the pipe, but it depends on the size of the pipe. If you ensure the pipe ends are square and deburred, it should work fine. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-slip-coupling

 

[Jeff H Young]

Im hardly a big proponent of sharkbites. but with good preperation and being careful I think its ok, but for a pro with experiance and tools readily available , usualy not needed but there are times a skilled hand would likely use them .
For an inexperianced homeowner with some mechanical ability and willingness to be careful , they can be used responcebly even on a closed wall or cieling in my opinion

 

[Jadnashua]

I live in a condo. My unit shutoff was leaking. TO fix it by soldering, I would have had to shut off the 10-units in the row of townhouses (assuming I could get to where that valve was!), then wait for it to slowly drain down enough out of 10-units. I chose to use a Sharkbite fitting where I'd already soldered up the new shutoff. After maybe a couple of minutes with the water off, the flow was diminished enough so I could push on the Sharkbite without spraying it all over, and could then turn the rest of the units back on at the building's main.

SO, yes, there are situations where even if you can solder, they can be a big savings in time. Now, I probably could have used a compression fitting valve, but with two wrenches, over my head near the ceiling with water still coming out, the Sharkbite was the better alternative!

The down side is that compared to a soldered connection (which is stronger and preferred), they cost a LOT more money even when you add in the time for the prep and soldering most of the time.