New well parts failing

[Coloradogirl]

1. I suggest that you post a photo that includes the pipe from the well, the pressure switch and the input to the pressure tank.
2. With whatever size and condition pressure tank, you will minimize cycling by using as much water as the pump produces to do your watering. The maximum cycling occurs when you use 1/2 as many gpm as the pump produces.
3. You did not ask, but adding more air can work around a failed pressure tank for a while. Over-do it, and you could risk blasts of air coming out of a faucet or sprinkler.

This is a pitless well with a 1hp submersible pump - all piping below frost level until it comes up into the bathroom at the shop, where all the pump components are. I'll try to get a photo, but the system has been operating since the late 70s without problems other than the periodic pump replacement. Pitless was adapted in the early 90s; new pump and components 2001; and this install August 2019. The tank was new at that date.

 

[Coloradogirl]

2 PSI below cutoff is NOT APPROPRIATE. It needs to be 2 PSI below cut-in.

You are correct AND I mis-typed. The tech had set it at 2 psi below cut-in i.e. at 38 psi for the 40/60 switch.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Coloradogirl]

The installer is working under another group's permit/license

The license holder is who has responsibility. Have you contacted them directly? It's their license on the line. They bear responsibility for anyone working under their license.

The license holder developed the well in the late 70s and operated local until about 2000. One of their employees, the one I'm dealing with, took over the business about 2001. Here's the thing, many of you are craftsmen and business owners, I've not contacted the license owner as I really hate to jeopardize people's livelihood if this can be made right. I'm not sure, given the circumstance, of what right is.

Interested in work around - extreme drought here and 100 degree weather damaged orchard and bearing shrubs this spring from having to limit well use. I can't afford to replace the system after only a year. I need the well service to provide a working well. Meantime, I don't want it to set my shop on fire as I work a solution. It appears, other than having the 2nd well service repair, I'm all I have....and all of you guys.

No, the pump does not cycle if there's no use of water. Last year on discovery of the problem, I check to assure no leaks in pipes or running/leaking toilets, fixtures or hydrants. I've 80 acres and hydrants to livestock pens. No problems - no leaks draining tank.

At replacement of scorched p-switch, the system worked perfectly for about 30-45 days. Short cycle has started again - need to walk out to shop and check pressures.

UPDATE: tank pressure down to 19 psi and pump not cutting in. Breaker on; shut off and reset controller and breaker on; flushed shop toilet and tank pressure at 0 psi - no system functions. The old Franklin controller was near so I put it in place of the new QD and turned breaker on. Pressure switch came on and began to short cycle from 60 to 38 psi in a one-two/one-two/one-two speed rate. The 90 gallon tank should not empty that fast. Any ideas on what to do next?

BTW: quoted wrong tank brand. Have a Fexcon Pro Flex2 90 gallon tank that has a 5 year warranty. Anyone familiar with this tank/company? (https://www.flexconind.com/flex 2 pro lite sell sheet lr 6-5-17.pdf)

 

[Boycedrilling]

Flexcon composite tanks are the only brand I install. The FL and the Pro Flex2 are identical tanks, just different part numbers sold thru different distributors. 5 year no questions asked warranty. All I have to do is send my distributor a photo of the ID tag on the tank showing the date code. They don't even have to see the actual tank.

 

[Bannerman]

The 90 gallon tank should not empty that fast.

The gallons specified on a pressure tank is the tank's total volume. To work properly, air will fill approx 75% of the tank space so your 90-gallon tank will hold approx 22.5 gallons of water from when the pump is turned on at 40 psi, to when it is shut off at 60 psi and vice versa.

 

[LLigetfa]

Anyone familiar with this tank/company? (https://www.flexconind.com/flex 2 pro lite sell sheet lr 6-5-17.pdf)

The drawdown according to that spec sheet is 26.5 gallons, so if you turn off the valve on the outlet to prevent water draw, you can do a drawdown test at the drain spigot. When the pump shuts off at 60 PSI, check to see that the pressure holds. Then drain the tank into a bucket and count how many gallons you drew before the pump turned back on. If you have much less than 26 gallons, then either the precharge is wrong or you have a failed diaphragm.

 

[Valveman]

The license holder developed the well in the late 70s and operated local until about 2000. One of their employees, the one I'm dealing with, took over the business about 2001. Here's the thing, many of you are craftsmen and business owners, I've not contacted the license owner as I really hate to jeopardize people's livelihood if this can be made right. I'm not sure, given the circumstance, of what right is.


UPDATE: tank pressure down to 19 psi and pump not cutting in. Breaker on; shut off and reset controller and breaker on; flushed shop toilet and tank pressure at 0 psi - no system functions. The old Franklin controller was near so I put it in place of the new QD and turned breaker on. Pressure switch came on and began to short cycle from 60 to 38 psi in a one-two/one-two/one-two speed rate. The 90 gallon tank should not empty that fast. Any ideas on what to do next?

BTW: quoted wrong tank brand. Have a Fexcon Pro Flex2 90 gallon tank that has a 5 year warranty. Anyone familiar with this tank/company? (https://www.flexconind.com/flex 2 pro lite sell sheet lr 6-5-17.pdf)

The tank has a 5 year warranty and is not holding air. Get a new tank and then see what is happening.