Air Bound Baseboard Radiators

[Brian Kerr]

Recently I had to do some emergency type plumbing to install a new indirect water heater as the old had started leaking. I already had the now one on hand as I suspected that it was only a matter of time... I was just waiting for warmer weather before taking down my heating system.

Long story short I managed to get the water heater in and it works great. no issues there, but in the process I got air into the heating zones and a couple spots get no heat. One of those is my office in a loft above the second floor.

I do not have any bleeder valves on any of my baseboards, and I do not have any drains on the return piping.

not sure how I can get the air out of the system. I included a couple of pictures, maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

 

[Dana]

There's a drain port valve with a green or black (?) handle on the zone manifold. Tie a hose to that port to direct the water outdoors or to a high capacity drain. Manually open the zone valve to the air-locked zone, open the drain valve, and use the lever on the top of the auto-fill to give it a high flow rate until it seems to stop spitting air.

That should work as long as there isn't a check valve blocking that flow.

Do this type of air purging one zone at a time.

Hopefully you calculated the required system pressure, pre-charged the expansion tank correctly to that pressure, and pressurized the system correctly? If the system pressure is too low the highest elevation plumbing/radiation on the system will be negative relative to the air pressure, potentially drawing air into the system.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

Is that the pump on the back side of boiler its black for the heating system? And is that the only pump for heating?
because the flow looks to go in the bottom of boiler out the top expansion tank then air emininator. If thats true the expansion tank is piped wrong has to be on the suction side of the pump and what water pressure your system running.