Adapt 1.5 Sump Pump discharge tube to 2" outlet?

[Jmpage2]

I had a small scare recently when the water alarm on my sump went off due to a high water level. Fortunately the pump eventually cycled and cleared sump pit before I had any flooding. It could be a fluke or maybe the switch on the unit is becoming intermittent, etc.

The unit is a 15 year old Zoeller (not sure of the model as I can't access it without uninstalling it) and I'm contemplating a replacement as it has never been serviced and is probably approaching its end of life. My understanding is that 10-15 years is typical for sump pump longevity with the best models going for maybe 20-25 years. I'm considering proactive replacement or at least having a new unit on hand with a flex tube in the event this one completely fails at an inopportune time.

It sits below a structural floor in a 24" pit in the basement crawl space and the well itself is about 5' deep.

The PVC discharge tube is 2" and there is a Zoeller brand check valve with 2" slip fittings hooking up to 2" PVC on either end.

Most of the new models I am looking at have 1.5" outlet threads. How big of a deal would it be to adapt 1.5" to 2" discharge? Would it affect the head shutoff, etc? I have about 15' of head height from the sump to the outlet in the home's rim joist.

I don't find too many models that have 2" discharge.... are they less common now than they used to be? I am considering a Liberty 287 with the magnetic switch as the replacement for this unit, however this unit has a 1.5 npt discharge threading. The pump can run several times a week in the summertime due to overwatering by my upslope neighbors but I have never experienced a situation where massive amounts of water needed to be quickly evacuated from the sump pit in the 15 years I've owned the home (original owner).

Thanks!

 

[Valveman]

Shouldn't be a problem using a 1.5 X 2 bushing or bell adapter. But moving this to plumbing where there are more people experienced with sump pumps.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

Increasing the pipe size on the discharge is not a problem.

 

[Sylvan]

I very seldom use a sump pump .... I do use sewer ejectors with a 2" discharge even for clear water discharging

 

[Jmpage2]

Thanks guys for the great information.


Is it advised to replace the check valve at the same time I replace the sump? The check valve is a pretty heavy duty cast iron job.

My only other question I suppose is if there’s anything specifically wrong with the Liberty pumps I should know about since I’m leaning in that direction.

 

[Reach4]

Whatever pump you get, put a weep hole below the check valve. This can be in the pit above or below the water line. The purpose is that if the sump goes dry, and the impeller gets full of air, the vacuum lock can be broken.

 

[Jmpage2]

Whatever pump you get, put a weep hole below the check valve. This can be in the pit above or below the water line. The purpose is that if the sump goes dry, and the impeller gets full of air, the vacuum lock can be broken.

thanks for the tip, I had seen this in the installation instructions for pumps as well. If possible I would reuse the existing PVC and can inspect and make sure the weep hole is present.

 

[Sylvan]

Thanks guys for the great information.


Is it advised to replace the check valve at the same time I replace the sump? The check valve is a pretty heavy duty cast iron job.

My only other question I suppose is if there’s anything specifically wrong with the Liberty pumps I should know about since I’m leaning in that direction.

Liberty is a decent brand .

 

[Terry]

My last replacement.

 

[Jmpage2]

Hey Terry and others thanks for your time, a worn out DIYer with two young kids appreciates the pros helping out.

I was able to determine the model of the pump I have and it is in fact an M53 as well. Even though it doesn't run a bunch it's given me nearly 15 years of solid service and now that Zoeller builds their higher end version the M63 I might just put that in as a replacement along with a new check valve and then hang onto the old somewhat working M53 as a manual backup.... I suppose I could replace the float switch on it too.

You guys are awesome, thanks!!

 

[Jmpage2]

My last replacement.

I do have a follow-up & hopefully final question.

I finally got my new pump in today... I wasn't able to do sooner as I ordered a check-valve that wouldn't work and had to wait for the new one I ordered to come in.

I drilled the very small air hole (they said something really tiny like 1/32 or something like that) at the level of my pump as recommended by Zoeller and proceeded to get my pump installed and then poured a bucket of water in to turn on the pump and test it. When the pump shut down it seized up and the pipe shook so I assumed that the air hole was not working.

I read from some long time plumbers to always use a 3/16 bleed hole regardless of what the manufacturer says and I drilled one of these in, a bit further up from the original as I didn't want to completely uninstall the pump to access the original location (recall that my sump is like 60" deep).

When I tested the pump again I could see water shooting out of the relief hole and when the flow shut down the pump made a little bit of a wheezing sound as it apparently sucked air through the hole but it didn't shake or anything so I assume it didn't vacuum lock.

I never observed any of this with the original pump.

Is this "normal" or should I uninstall the pump and change something? I suppose I could make a video if that would be helpful.

Many thanks!

 

[Reach4]

I drilled the very small air hole (they said something really tiny like 1/32 or something like that) at the level of my pump as recommended by Zoeller

See https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Zoeller-63-0001-Install-Instructions.pdf page 4 item 4.

Says 3/16.

 

[Hidden 1]

I'm looking to do the same thing with mine in a outside drywell ,going up to a 2 inch size pipe,an wondering about the correct location on the weep hole.
Oddly the manual in the pic shared says weep hole is to be at top of pump an viewable ,yet pump is underground where, if high water ,cant be viewable.
So do you place the hole where it will be underwater or above ground ?
And is the checkvalve to always be verticle?
My checkvalve currently is in horizontally ,an weep hole above ground. Theres only a 2ft height on pipe an a downhill slope from there .
Im looking for max output too since the rockpit can get full fast..
Good info from the recent posts.

 

[Jmpage2]

ds

See page 4 item 4.

Says 3/16.

thanks, not sure how I got the wrong information on that one.

 

[Jmpage2]

I'm looking to do the same thing with mine in a outside drywell ,going up to a 2 inch size pipe,an wondering about the correct location on the weep hole.
Oddly the manual in the pic shared says weep hole is to be at top of pump an viewable ,yet pump is underground where, if high water ,cant be viewable.
So do you place the hole where it will be underwater or above ground ?
And is the checkvalve to always be verticle?
My checkvalve currently is in horizontally ,an weep hole above ground. Theres only a 2ft height on pipe an a downhill slope from there .
Im looking for max output too since the rockpit can get full fast..
Good info from the recent posts.

from my research on this the check valve can be horizontal or vertical and the weep hole can be above or below water as long as it is between the check valve and the pump.

 

[Reach4]

from my research on this the check valve can be horizontal or vertical and the weep hole can be above or below water as long as it is between the check valve and the pump.

The hole should be under the cover.

I think those sump pump check valves are usually made to be vertical. Read the directions on the one you choose.

 

[Jmpage2]

The hole should be under the cover.

I think those sump pump check valves are usually made to be vertical. Read the directions on the one you choose.

that’s true and will be apparent to anyone who drills it high enough up that it shoots water across their basement. Another trick apparently is to drill it at an upward angle so the water jet goes down.

My sump pit is so deep it doesn’t matter.

I looked at five different Odell check valves before choosing a clear one made by Raybend. Every one I looked at could be installed horizontally or vertically. There probably are ones that are vertical only but most of the better ones only require 4-5 lbs to open and are listed by manufacturers as being okay in either orientation as long as water flow matches install direction.

 

[Hidden 1]

With mine being outside at a pit it's ok if it sprays out ,
-I just wanted to be sure having the hole above the waterline is ok.An if changing to a 2 inch pipe would make a difference at all.?
I only have 2 ft to pump vertically ,then it's all downhill from there[50 ft] an was hoping to do away with the check valve since it's a open ,in ground, good draining rock pit an any water left will drain down into the ground in a few hours .
Anything to get it out faster .
Thanks

 

[Reach4]

With mine being outside at a pit it's ok if it sprays out ,
-I just wanted to be sure having the hole above the waterline is ok.An if changing to a 2 inch pipe would make a difference at all.?
I only have 2 ft to pump vertically ,then it's all downhill from there[50 ft] an was hoping to do away with the check valve since it's a open ,in ground, good draining rock pit an any water left will drain down into the ground in a few hours .
Anything to get it out faster .
Thanks

I think if there is no check valve, no hole needed. The problem the hole addresses is the pump sucking dry, and the impeller only having air to try to pump. The hole lets the air out so that water can come in from the bottom to the impeller area.

 

[Hidden 1]

Thanks,that's good to know!
So will changing out that male 1 1/2 to a 2 ,at pump ,raise the amount or speed at all while pumping ?