Shower drain over header

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Reach4

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What is it worth to you to avoid drilling the joist and getting the pan you want? You might get a quote from a place that come up on this search engine search: "custom shower pans" price
I am not saying that including the word price in the search will result in a price in the results, but it seemed to help a bit.
 

Steven JP

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Drilling through a header is not a great idea, even if allowed, IMHO.

Your best choice is probably either to have a custom pan manufactured, or build yourself one out of mud. If you are considering that, check out www.johnbridge.com that dedicates the whole website on doing things with tile, and showers being a large portion of it.

My preference, if going that way, is to use a sheet membrane like Kerdi. The drain can go anywhere, but usually works best if it is in the middle. A linear drain, though, can easily be placed near an edge.

Is this anywhere you could box in the drain line so you wouldn't need to go through the joist?


I agree with you on not messing with the header but it seems like nobody thinks raising the shower is a good idea either. A custom shower pan will definitely solve all my problems and if I wasnt as busy as I am I would definitely do that. A ready made shower pan will save me alot of time. I hate to be that way and usually I do stuff to make it look as good as I can make it but this is just a guest bedroom and I don't want this project to take forever.
As far as boxing out a joint that's not possible but I can put a 1.5 inch pipe through a joist pretty safely. If I raise the shower I wouldn't have to go through anything at all.
 

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Steven JP

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Reach4

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Yeah im guessing marble would be pretty pricey.
I think it is "cultured marble", which means plastic. Still may be very pricey however.

"Quartz" countertops are plastic too, and they are pricey.
 

Mike Rock

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Yeah im guessing marble would be pretty pricey. I appreciate the help. Im sure that would look great though.
I should be able to raise a normal base pretty easily for the plumbing right?

You should as long as you make it so the base won't flex , but keep in mind the p-trap adds some height to the base. How much do you actually need to raise it so the pipe coming out of the p-trap clears the header?
 

Steven JP

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You should as long as you make it so the base won't flex , but keep in mind the p-trap adds some height to the base. How much do you actually need to raise it so the pipe coming out of the p-trap clears the header?


Well if I put the drain on the other side of the header i can put the p trap in a joist bay then when the trap comes back up run it over the header. So I should only have to bring it up the width of the pipe. Maybe a little more just to give some extra room.
Any special techniques I should do here. I was just going to use a bunch of 2 by 4s. Sister together as many as I can . Make it as solid as I can.
 

Mike Rock

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Well if I put the drain on the other side of the header i can put the p trap in a joist bay then when the trap comes back up run it over the header. So I should only have to bring it up the width of the pipe. Maybe a little more just to give some extra room.
Any special techniques I should do here. I was just going to use a bunch of 2 by 4s. Sister together as many as I can . Make it as solid as I can.

Doubled 2x4’s would work and 3/4 plywood on top.
 

Jadnashua

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A raised shower floor can be a major safety hazard, as stepping down with wet feet can be quite tricky. Ideally, things would be nearly the same level. This might be particularly relevant for guests that aren't familiar with the situation.

FWIW, tiling a shower with a pan made with deck mud is literally dirt cheap (deck mud is mostly sand:cement in a 5:1 ratio), and tile doesn't have to be expensive, but can be. Add a liner (my preference is a surface applied sheet membrane so you only need one layer), but a conventional liner is cheaper and works, if done right.
 

Steven JP

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A raised shower floor can be a major safety hazard, as stepping down with wet feet can be quite tricky. Ideally, things would be nearly the same level. This might be particularly relevant for guests that aren't familiar with the situation.

FWIW, tiling a shower with a pan made with deck mud is literally dirt cheap (deck mud is mostly sand:cement in a 5:1 ratio), and tile doesn't have to be expensive, but can be. Add a liner (my preference is a surface applied sheet membrane so you only need one layer), but a conventional liner is cheaper and works, if done right.

It will only be raised a couple inches.
 
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